“If you haven’t flipped the boat, you haven’t really rafted the Nile,” said our guide, Phillip, as we floated leisurely downstream. The eight of us in the inflatable blue paddleboat exchanged glances that suggested perhaps we didn’t want to raft the Nile after all. But here we were in Uganda, the small East African country that claims to host the source of the mighty Nile where it exits Lake Victoria, with paddles in our hands and lifejackets around our chests, ten minutes into a one-day rafting trip. No turning back now.

Whitewater rafting trips along the source of the Nile offer some of the best rapids in the world, making it the biggest draw for adrenaline junkies in the region. With warm water and year-round sun, river trips have become one of the most popular activities in Uganda for travelers. A handful of companies offer one- or two-day trips that include grade five rapids, the highest level that’s commercially run. No experience is required to enjoy a rafting excursion on the famous river—but it’s certainly not for the faint of heart.

We thought we might be in for a little excitement when, in our “basic training,” Phillip flipped the boat with us still inside. In the calm water near the put-in, it was easy enough to take a deep breath, hold on to the outside rope while being flipped, and pop up next to the overturned boat when it was all over. But we knew that in the turmoil of the rapids, it would be a miracle if we could figure out which way was up.

I also didn’t think it was a good sign when two of us fell out of the boat on the first rapid we hit—a dinky one-and-a-half grade ripple that barely made the map. Being one of the people who took a topple, I was a bit concerned about what a grade two would bring, never mind a four or five. Aside from gulping down a bit of foul water and emerging mildly embarrassed, I was fine—but not so enthusiastic about trying my luck with rocks around.

Altogether there were nine of us on the boat: Phillip, our guide; me and my boyfriend, Randy; my 60-year-old parents; two Irish travelers; and a couple from England. Ours was one of three boats to head down together with the same company that day. My parents were experienced rafters with trips down the Grand Canyon under their belt, while there were others on board who had never seen the inside of a paddleboat. Of course, experience matters little when you’re sucking water beneath the surface of a grade four rapid.

And so we made our way down the Nile. The next few rapids after the first were manageable enough for us to get used to the routine: paddling hard over the first drop until Phillip yelled “get down!” at the last possible second, when we’d hit the floor and brace for impact. Mid-rapid we’d often be summoned “back on the job, team!” to navigate the boat through the rest of the waves. On one rapid we missed a crucial turn and ended up going down backwards off a five-foot ledge.  Read More...