Part of The Tawi Tawi group, Sitangkai sits at the southernmost edge of the Philippine archipelago. An island of coral with houses perched on stilts, it is intertwined with bamboo walkways strewn across a network of canals, arteries used for passage by boats of infinite sizes and varieties. Compared to Venice in many travel tracts, its architecture is more rustic than majestic, for its historical recollection lacks the splendor of the original, but it has a character all its own, as a community bustling with commercial activity, as intricate and complex as any major metropolis.

Once a simple fishing village, its proximity to neighboring Malaysia and Indonesia attracted traders from all over the region, sailing from port to port in light sailcraft. It became an important clearing center for the barter trade, an enterprise, vexing but tolerated by the more prosperous neighbors. The population, previously a shy people, now demonstrate a growing sophistication about them. An unwelcome change. In the past, a curious glance, an averted gaze, or a bemused smile was all the reaction visitors drew. In sharp contrast, today, particularly when a camera is visible, they stimulate posturing and clamors for attention. One prominent manifestation of a lost innocence.

As a viable trading outpost, everyone in it has developed an appetite for consumer goods, and now devotes much time to its acquisition. Neglecting traditional handicrafts, at which they once excelled, they now barter finished products manufactured elsewhere. Despite relatively primitive surroundings, Sitangkai has a spiritual resemblance to Hongkong. The stocked shelves of stores are not as elaborate or extensive, as yet, but from present indications, it’s likely to become one big shopping center. Commercial transactions areconstant throughout the day, and unlike many of the more developed provinces of Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao, money appears to circulate equitably, with goods and services in perpetual exchange.

The bamboo walkways are gradually being replaced with concrete, and shops line the main paths. The high ceilinged wooden Malayan structures are being replaced with buildings made of hollow block and plywood, with facades decorated with mosaic tile, making them reminiscent of Moroccan villas. Many tiny coffee shops are interspersed among dry goods stores, stark but clean. Because of the abundance of marine life, sea food is remarkably inexpensive. Knowing they were bought still wriggling from fishermen’s boats, one learns to savor them more, despite the fact, cooking is rather plain. They are either steamed or broiled on charcoal. Like the housewives, restaurant proprietors disdain anything but the freshest catch. Read More...