Words and Photos by James Dorsey

Cresting the mesa summit, I am confronted by two warriors with cocked bows. Their arrows are zeroed between my eyes, and all I can think of is “I’m going to die here in Mali!”

I have reached the Dogon city of Niongomo, in Mali, West Africa, a seat of high art and culture for almost 1000 years; and judging from my reception, a place not actively seeking tourists.

The warriors motion for me to follow them. They are both short and wiry, the color of mahogany, with loincloths and leather armbands wound tight around their sinewy limbs.

My fears are allayed when Ali--a local Dogon that I met in the port city of Mopti-- steps forth to shake my hand. We had hit it off and I hired him to be my guide. Ali went ahead to alert them of my coming as we were not sure what the reception would be.

Now, as I see the bowmen smiling broadly, I realize this is Ali’s idea of a welcome, and an introduction to Dogon humor. He is laughing as we begin the elaborate greeting ritual that involves inquiring about the health and current status of multiple family members each and every time they meet.

It can take several minutes to do this just passing someone on a trail, but not to do so would be very insulting. In a crowded village, the better part of a day can be spent just saying hello.

I follow Ali up the path, and small black faces peer at me from behind rocks, disappearing like ghosts. These next few moments are critical as I stop and blow up a bright red balloon.

When I hold it out in offering, a small child breaks from cover and rushes towards me. I am in.

Depending on who you talk to, the current population is somewhere between 300,000 and 450,000 spread throughout the escarpment. Walking among their houses, however, the population seems to be quite scarce.

Because of the Dogon's history, they are wary of visitors until they get to know you.

It is generally believed that they migrated into the area known as the Bandiagara Escarpment of southwestern Mali, between the 14th and 15th centuries to escape the slave raiding Monde kingdom among other tribes.

The more powerful and warlike peoples of this area raided for slaves until the practice peaked around the 18th century, when under the rise of militant Islam, jihads called for slaves to be used as indentured warriors. The relatively small and peaceful Dogon were a prime target.

Oral history is very colorful and local lore tells of a snake that led them to the escarpment and their liberation.

Once the Dogon relocated to these mesas, they competed with the already well established Pygmies, known locally as “Tellem.” By this time, the pygmy cities were already ancient. Read More...