For years, the 10-kilometer stretch of the Caribbean coast from the mouth of the Pacuare River to Laguna Parismina could be considered a “poacher’s paradise” for three of the largest species of marine turtles in Costa Rica: The Leatherback, the Caray, and the Green Turtle. These beautiful creatures have been returning to their birthplace every year to lay eggs and often fall under the opportunistic gaze of poachers.

La Tortuga Feliz, the only turtle-protection project in the area, was established in April of 2004 by Paul Lepoutre, a Dutchman and former businessman, who has lived in Costa Rica for ten years. The project, which has attracted the interest and support of groups such as the World Wildlife Fund, is attempting to help the turtles by having its volunteers and local guides maintain a regular presence on the beaches at night. The organization doubles as a volunteer opportunity for aspiring conversationalists, and a cheap hostel for travelers looking for an experience on a remote slice of the Caribbean. Travelers pay a modest fee ($12.50 per night) and are provided with room and board, as well as a unique, hands-on experience working with these fascinating creatures.

Although fishing nets and boats cause some of the area’s turtle deaths, most meet their fate at the hand of poachers, mainly because of the increasingly tempting $300 price tag per turtle (more than one month’s pay for most residents).

“There is no reason we should stand by and allow these creatures to be picked off the beaches when there are laws protecting them, but if we don’t do it who will?” asked
Lepoutre.

Although the numbers aren’t exact, the once-abundant amounts of turtles on the beach are beginning to diminish considerably, according to Lepoutre. “If we see someone trying to kill a turtle, we can try and talk them out of it,” Lepoutre said, “but when it comes to the eggs, they are pretty much gone if the poachers know where they are, so it’s important that we find them first.”

Since La Tortuga Feliz volunteers have been patrolling the beaches at night, suddenly fewer poachers from outside are present on the beaches. This is important because opportunistic locals aren’t likely to be as violent as outsiders, who have been known to carry weapons and travel in groups, according to Lepoutre.

“You see many people out on the beaches in the dark and they will talk to you a little, making it seem like they are just enjoying the breeze,” said Travis Williams, one of the first volunteers with the program. “But when you turn your back on them, they can be on a turtle tying it up in a flash.” Williams went on to describe one night when he followed a man who had strung a turtle up and was dragging it down the beach in waist-deep water, where he had a boat waiting. He confronted the man and finally, after arguing for a couple minutes and eventually prying the rope from the man’s hands, the man gave up and left the bound turtle with Travis. “That was quite a rush since it as in the middle of the night and I was alone with this guy, wrestling around in the water,” he recalls, “but usually, it doesn’t come to that. Our presence is almost always enough to discourage the poachers.”  Read More...