Berlin Zeitgeist

By MichaLola  |  Location: Germany  |  11/20/07
Best neighborhoods

In a city of 3.4 million inhabitants and 12 buroughs (bezirke), where you live is a good indicator of your social identity, alignments and affiliations. The popular districts of Charlottenberg, Wilmersdorf, and Tiergarten are mostly comprised of the crème de la crème of the Berlin society, including business bigwigs, city celebrities, and international V.I.P.'s. Schöneberg is another upper class area but is known for its gay population and left-wing attitudes. Mitte is divided into the the affluent locals in the Friedrichstrasse and Unter den Linden section whilst the younger, student crowd are situated towards the north. Prenzlauer Berg at the northern section of Mitte, is known for the "BoBo's" (Bourgeoisie Bohemians) and is becoming one of the city's favored districts for expatriates, artists, and young families. Other artsy buroughs include Friedrichshain and the Bergmanstrasse area of Kruezberg which is known for the many non-conformist beatniks, punks, and fashionistas. On the other hand, Kreuzberg's Kottbusser Tor section is known for its large Turkish population and myriad of alternative "Doner Parties." Neukölln is another new hotspot, often heralded as the "new Kreuzberg," this part of Berlin is a cultural melting pot with people coming from Turkey, Asia, and Africa. The least popular section of Berlin is Wedding and Lichtenburg, which is often affiliated with the right-wing conservatives.

Authentic Culture

"Doner Parties" have been the most popular, yet underground ways to enjoy the night. The location is constantly changing, but you can be assured that if you see a long line of people waiting by the Doner shop, it's often not because they make a wonderful Durum (although, they also probably do). Usually held at the back or in the basement of these popular shops, you'll find the most celebrated DJ's spin the night away while the crowd loads up on the cheap drinks and dances to the pulsating, ear-shattering beats. The most common locations have been in Kreuzberg's "Baghdad" and Friedrichshain's "Oktagon" doner shops. A great way to get the inside track is to ask the Berlin hipsters about "Sexy Doner" and they'll often happily direct you to this unique, albeit quirky, activity.

Are Berliners nationalistic? Yes and no. Ask locals about Berlin and its almost guaranteed that they'll give you a heartfelt account of their love for the city; from its rich history to the alternative lifestyle. However, ask them about Germany and the most common response is: "I am not German. I am a Berliner."

Activism is the city's most popular pastime. Hang out by the Brandenburg Gate on a weekend and you'll find a diverse array of students and hippies protesting a myriad of causes. From "Critical Mass," calling for greater cycling rights and environmental protection to "Liberty instead of Fear" which aims to revolt against government surveillance.

A great way to make some extra beer money is to bring in your old bottles to any supermarket and you'll get a few cents for your environmentally concerned effort. Another tip is to bring your bottle or glass back to the bar or club and you'll often be reimbursed 50 cents and after a long night of drinking, it adds up. See, it does pay to recycle!

Do not even attempt to cheat the transport system. The undercover inspectors frequent the trains and buses and once caught, will result in a hefty, no excuses, on-the-spot fine of 40 Euros. If you must dare (for those of you who believe that money grows on trees), be aware that the most common times for inspections are at noontime and four to six p.m. But then again, its almost certain that the moment the doors shut and you think you're in the clear, the most unlikely person will stand up and flash his or her badge and you'll be a painful, 40 Euros poorer.

Are you bad at haggling but love flea markets? Like in most popular destination, once its discovered you're a tourist the price, of even the junkiest of junks, will go up to 50%. A great trick to get the local price laugh your head off and go "Bah! Nay!" and pretend to walk away and your longed for item will most certainly be yours.

Fun Fact: The first movie seen by East Berliners during the Fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 was..."Dirty Dancing."

Berlin is known for its museums, however take a 'walk on the wild side' and explore the city's more unusual options.

Check out:
The Berliner Medzinhistorisches Museum (Berlin Medical History Museum)
Zucker Musuem (Sugar Museum)
Deutsches Currywurst Museum
Ramones Museum
Erotik Museum

The Hotel Adlon located near the Brandenburg Gate and by Unter den Linden is not only famous for its exorbitant prices, but also because it is where the infamous "Michael Jackson baby swinging incident" took place.

Transportation

S/U-BAHN

The most effective and preferred means of public transport are the S/U Bahns which operate from 4 a.m. to 12 a.m. on weekdays and run 24 hours on weekends and holidays. The S-Bahn (light rail), often called the schnell (fast) train by locals have fewer stops and is great for longer trips. While the U-Bahn (underground) runs more frequently and have more locations throughout the city. Most of the carriages are clean and well-maintained and have digital diplays announcing the next station, as well as the final stop. An average ticket costs 2.10 Euros while a short trip (3 stops or less) is 1.40 Euros, make sure to validate your ticket at the station as undercover inspectors frequent the train and once caught, will result in a hefty, no excuses, on-the-spot fine of 40 Euros.

BUS/TRAMS

Although Berlin's double-decker buses are a tad slow and often late, its a cheap way to do some sightseeing. Forego the expensive bus tours and hop on either the 100 or 200 bus lines, which passes through all the major city sights. Its a great deal for 2.10 Euros (single ticket) which is good for two hours in one direction. You can also buy a Day Pass (Tageskarte), which is 5.80 Euros.

If you get left behind by the S/U Bahn, the night buses are available from 12:30 a.m. to 4:30 a.m. and work on 30 minute intervals. The N2, N5, N6, N8 and N9 follow similar routes of the U2, U5, U6, U8 and U9.

Trams also operate all day and all night, however they are only available in the eastern areas of Berlin.

Other

Historical Overview:

It is the capital, as well as the heart and soul, of Germany. Located in the North-eastern region of country, it lies along the river Spree and is 70 Kilometers west of the border of Poland. It began in the 13th century and was known as the "Great Swamp Village" as well as a trading centre but later came to the world's attention due to its tragic past. Berlin, less than 800 years old, is young compared to other cities in Europe. It later came to be the capital of the Kingdom of Prussia (1701-1918), the German Empire (1871-1918), the Weimar Republic (1919-1933) and the Third Reich (1933-1945). The deepest scars in its history occurred during the time of Hitler and after the 2nd World War where the city was divided.

Hitler's reign began after Germany's humiliating defeat in World War I. It was a time of social unrest within the city wherein revolutionary riots caused the Republic to be announced. Despite the economic and social problems, Berlin became the hub for art, culture, theatre, vaudevilles, and an energetic nightlife. This era came to be known as the "Golden Twenties." However, this decadent era did not last long, by the 1929 stock market crash, 450,000 people were unemployed. Adolf Hitler's Nazi Party won its first seats in the city parliament that same year. The Republic was quickly being broken down and on July 1932, the Prussian government under Otto Braun was dismissed by presidential decree. The darkest days were soon to come, as Hitler became Chancellor on January 30, 1933. Thus began the mass persecution of Jews, Homosexuals, Communists, Oppositionals and anyone else he could use as a scapegoat for the country's financial and societal issues. Before the Nazi's came into power, there were 160,000 Jews in the city, and by the end of their reign, only 1200 Jews survived by hiding.

In 1943, Berlin was bombed by the Allied forces and by 1944 raids on major German cities had reached its peak. In April 1945, the 'Race to Berlin' began during the wherein the Allied generals competed to enter the city. Despite their obvious defeat and pressure from the Red Army, Hitler refused to surrender and remained in command. On April 30, 1945 Hitler and Eva Braun (his long-time companion and briefly his wife) killed themselves in Führerbunker underneath the Reich Chancellery. In May 2, 1945, Berlin came into the hands of the Soviets. After the Nazi regime and World War II, the city was left in ruins.

Under the 1944 London Protocol, the Allies divided the city into four parts: the Northwest (Wedding and Reinickendorf) was controlled by France, the West (Charlottenburg, Tiergarten and Spandau) by Great Britain, The Southwest (Zehlendorf, Steglitz, Wilmersdorf, Tempelhof, Kreuzberg, and Nuekolln) by the USA, and the East (Mitte, Prenzlauer Berg, Friedrichshain, Treptow and Kopenick) by the Soviet Union.

The city became object of the Soviet-American conflict, when the Americans refused to grant war reparations and the currency reform that took place without the Soviet approval. Thus, on June 26, 1948, the Soviets blocked ground access to West Berlin, which was known as the "Berlin Blockade." It resulted with the Western Allies providing the Western sector with 'candy bombers' known as the "die Luftbrücke" (air bridge). The blockade ended on May 11, 1949. However, this did not end the separation of Berlin, as the communist East German began to (secretly) build a wall that would physically separate the Eastern and Western parts of the city. The Western sector of the city became enclosed in the wall, yet it was the Eastern section who had limited freedom. The wall was touted by the East German government as the "anti-fascist protection wall." The wall was built in the early morning and left many people separated from their loved ones who ended up being stranded in the East. Travel was possible for those coming from the West, albeit heavily controlled checkpoints. However, for Easterners, travel had become impossible.

There were numerous escapes to freedom, some provoking creative plots such as the man who passed dressed in cow hide and a family who swung themselves through a clothes line. However, despite the few successful attempts (5,000), there were also many fatal ones; wherein 192 people were killed trying to cross and an estimated 200 were seriously injured.

It finally came to an end on November 9, 1989 due to a 'happy accident,' wherein Politburo member Günter Schabowski came to a televised press conference unprepared for questions regarding the wall. He ended up giving a misleading press statement wherein he announced that "all travel restrictions had been lifted." When asked when this move would take effect, the disoriented Schabowski responded with "right away." He was actually referring to the date on his document, which had nothing to do with the restrictions. Upon hearing the news, tens of thousands of people rushed to the wall and passed through the border. The very first man to climb the wall stated that it was a rush of fate, and when the blast of water hit him, he had at first thought that he had been shot. When he realized that it was just water, he propelled himself over and many others followed. A mass of partying, tears, champagne, and cheers ensued. West Berliners welcomed the children from the East with candies and toys, while many Easterners rushed to watch their very first international movie--the 1989 hit, Dirty Dancing. On this eve, the city was once again united.

From then on, things have begun to look up for this scarred city. In 1990, Berlin became a separate city-state and Pink Floyd performed "The Wall" in Potsdamer Platz. The Bundestag, the German Parliament, moved the German capital back from Bonn to Berlin in June 1991.

At present, there are still a few political problems and scandals, yet its grim past is firmly, and undoubtedly far behind. Since the reaunification, most of Berlin's Western districts have been changed, most predominantly that of the Mitte district. The East however has taken its own life, with much of the 'grungy' sections becoming hotbeds for the city's young and emerging artists, performers, literati, and partygoers. Its constantly changing landscape potrays Berlin's swift development as a metropolitan hub and a cultural, economic, and artistic powerhouse.

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