What goes on -
Bring your whisky tolerance. It is harder to get your hands on a soft drink or glass of water than a whisky when the party gets into full swing. Drinking, drinking, dancing and more drinking all set to the music of the accordion, guacharaca and caja.

When
The Festival takes place in the last week of April and first week of May every year. It was founded in 1967 and every ten years the Festival is bigger and better as it is the Rey de Reyes, King of Kings. 2007 was the 40th edition and the Rey de Reyes.

Where to Stay -
Here's the stinger. There are few hotels and no hostels in Valledupar. During the festival there is no option but to rent a room in a private home. Try and negotiate this beforehand as prices are hiked sky high in this period.

What to expect -
Hordes of people who live and die for this music. Visitors from all over Colombia, some Venezuelans and a growing crowd of Mexicans. Did I mention the kindness of strangers and the warmth of the people there? Well, it something never to be forgotten, never is your stomach empty or your throat dry...these people cater for one and all as if they were family.

Where -
Valledupar is a functional and not unpretty town 14-18 hours bus journey from Bogota or roughly 5 hours from Baranquilla. If you have the cash and little time to spare then a few airlines fly there...a delightful 55 minutes from the capital.

The security situation in Colombia is forgotten for the week of the Festival and there is little or no risk to foreigners during this period. One radio journalist suggested that they make the Festival last all year to maintain this feeling of security and wellbeing.

Juepaje! - Still not sure what it means, but it appeared to make all Costenos happy when I said it.

Be sure to bathe in the cool glacial melt waters of the river Guatipuri. It is said that everyone who does so will return to Valledupar