The chairs squeak, almost bent out of shape by your weight. They are made of plastic, just like the tiny low stool in front of you that serves as a table. That plastic is worn, even a little stained. Your legs squeeze because you are low. But you could just stretch them out, resting on the edge...

That day, we hired a bike and rode around, above and below Sapa. It was fantastic, the freedom. About 15km from Sapa we visited a minority village called Ta Phin. Past the village centre, which is accustomed to and expects tourists (though we saw none), we went further out. The rather narrow road led...