SHANGHAI CONTEMPORARY ART GUIDE

There are a myriad of reasons to visit Shanghai. Simply put – Shanghai is an exuberant city. This hot Asian destination is brimming over with inventive architecture, a burgeoning skyline that easily rivals New York or Hong Kong, cutting edge interior design and a vibrant art scene that is blushing from all of the international attention it is receiving. Chinese contemporary art is almost as hot as the August weather in Shanghai. Not only are people talking about it in United States, Europe and Asia, ample amounts of people are buying it up like never before. Although Beijing is known for its thriving art scene, Shanghai didn’t want to be left behind, and an entire art movement is happening in this cosmopolitan city as we speak.

In May of 2002, Christies was the first auction house to offer a work of Chinese contemporary art to bidders in the United States. Although Cai Guo Qiang’s painting, A Certain Lunar Eclipse (Project for Humankind No. 2), was estimated at $30,000 American dollars, it sold for $229,500. Instead of buying Chinese art abroad, why not take the cultural opportunity to visit Shanghai and purchase a piece from one of the many galleries Shanghai has to offer? Whether you plan to purchase a work of art or not, explore Shanghai with a contemporary art angle in mind because you will be exposed to the city in a unique way.

MOGANSHAN LU
Shanghai’s art soul is in Moganshan Lu, which is located in the Putuo district, near Suzhou Creek. This should be the first place to start your art tour. Here, converted warehouses and factories have their fingers directly on the pulse of all that is happening in contemporary Chinese art. Charming streets and alleyways house small and large galleries, where photography, painting, installations and sculptures beckon you for an afternoon of fascinating discovery. In 2003, Art Scene, one of China’s most prominent contemporary art pioneers, opened an 18,000 square foot minimalist warehouse space at Moganshan Lu. Many people were skeptical and thought the two directors, Elisabeth de Brabant and Sami Wafa, were wasting time and money on such a big space since the government had plans to tear down the old warehouses. In no time, Art Scene began to attract attention because of the high quality artists they represent – both emerging and established – and other galleries and studios began to set up shop, converting the old warehouses into the charming and artistic area that is now Moganshan Lu. In 2005, Art Scene and Dragonair began an annual competition, Dragonair Emerging Chinese Artists Awards (DECAA). In both the first and second year, hundreds of applicants submitted works of ink on paper, oil and acrylic on canvas and mixed media on paper; DECAA has become an astounding success, garnering national and international attention. The judging panel was as distinguished as they were diverse and international. Although Art Scene remains a must see during a trip to Suzhou Creek, check out the space at ShanghART for video, ink and painting. If it’s photography you are after, go to m97, an up and coming gallery that supports international and Chinese photography. Chinese owned Eastlink Gallery is well worth a visit. Although they have played an important role in supporting Chinese artists, Eastlink Gallery is responding to the increasing importance for dialogue between China and the rest of the world by showing more international artists these days.

FORMER FRENCH CONCESSION
210 Taikang Lu
Another up and coming area of Shanghai is Taikang Lu. After visiting Moganshan Lu (which closes earlier), Taikang Lu is a lovely place to make your way to in the late evening. It is located in the former French Concession; the absolutely charming brick warehouse renovations are filled with shopping boutiques, cozy galleries, office spaces, cafés and restaurants. Check out the International Artists Factory for more of an artistic shopping experience. Slowly walk around, and wander into the Taikang Art Museum and Deke Erh Art Centre, where there are various exhibits and photography on display.

Fuxing Road
This historic road is in the heart of the old French Concession. It is calm tree-lined street that deserves a moment of your time. Along Fuxing Road is a 1930s villa that houses another Art Scene gallery, which is very different from the huge Suzhou Creek warehouse. The space is cheerful and welcoming, displaying smaller sized works – more suited for a residential or small office space. Along this same road are lovely shops and other galleries where you can buy some interior design goods to bring home with you.

XINTIANDI
Even though Xintiandi is full of restored Shikumen, stone gate homes, this area is quite modern for the traditional look it is aspires to envelope. Xintiandi is very popular with tourists and upwardly mobile locals because of the boutique and department store style shopping, restaurants, nightlife and art inspired galleries or shops in the area. Flow Market appeared for a few weeks in May and June in Shanghai, but it has a permanent venue in the Danish Design Centre in Denmark. Flow Market is an artistic shopping experience, which asks the consumer to think about his role in the ever stressful, polluted, environmentally fragile world we live in. Flow Market sells empty packaging with individual, collective or environmentally conscious words or statements on the front, like “Addiction Liberators,” “Spam Killer,” or “Clean Tap Water.” Number D has an artistic presence all over the Shanghai, but its Xintiandi location displays and sells the avant-garde jewelry creations made by Jiang Qiong Er. Also, in the Xintiandi area, there is the famous Liuli Art Museum. Here, the history of ancient Chinese glassmaking, liuli, is on display through the owner Loretta Yang’s personal work, along with the works of other famous international artists. The outside of the museum is done in all glass blocks, which are backlit by purple and blue tones. Loretta Yang felt there was a lack of Chinese presence in the art of glassmaking, and she wanted to bring back a technique known as pâte-de-verre, which uses lost wax casting. The museum mixes a futuristic, zen and classic look all together through its intricate attention to interior glass design, the glass art on display and the classy wine and music lounge on the top floor.

FERGUSON LANE
This area could be considered a mini-Xintiandi. It is still young, but it is maturing at a good rate. Although it doesn’t boast that many art galleries, it is definitely an area worth visiting because the elegant French style buildings are being transformed into aesthetically pleasing offices, cafés, shops, and gallery spaces. At the rate Shanghai is developing, this is one area that is bound to change quite quickly; so keep your eyes open for the changes to come soon.

PEOPLE’S PARK
Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) is conveniently located near the Shanghai Art Museum and Shanghai Museum in the People’s Park. MOCA is Shanghai’s first non-profit – independently owned and operated – art institution. MOCA’s main goal is to promote contemporary Chinese art locally and internationally, but they also bring Western contemporary art to Shanghai. MOCA recognizes the importance of a strong dialogue between the West and East when it comes to art exposure, education and recognition. Through August 8th, the Reversing Horizons exhibition invites Hong Kong artists to reflect on the 10th anniversary of the handover of Hong Kong back to China. From August 19th to September 23rd, MOCA will present Cosmos Gaudi: Architecture, Geometry and Design through numerous macro-productions and scale models of some of his greatest works. This will be the biggest collection of Gaudi’s work to ever come to China, and it is a revised – yet even larger – version of Gaudi Exploring Form, which was successfully exhibited in large cities around the world, such as Tokyo, Sao Paulo and Barcelona.

DINING & ART
Although seeking out the contemporary art scene is an excellent way to influence how you spend your time in Shanghai, you have to find time to eat. Why not dine at an art gallery then? Thai Gallery is a two-storey concept restaurant. This restaurant is meticulously designed like an upscale art gallery, but it serves up some of the most authentic (and reasonably priced) Thai fare in town. The Thai government recently gave them an award for the best Thai food in Shanghai; Thai Gallery beat out over twenty different Thai restaurants in Shanghai for this recognition. Owner, Edwin Ng, was tired of the wooden, Buddha-inspired look that almost every Thai restaurant succumbs to. Instead, bright and striking contemporary international art adorns the walls of this popular venue. All the art can be purchased, and Ng says that the art is constantly changing because patrons are eating up the yellow and green curries, pattaya salad, crab in sweet and spicy coconut sauce, and practically walking out with the art as well. The Italian restaurant, Palladio, at The Portman-Ritz Carlton Shanghai has some works of art on display from Art Scene. At the top of the Shanghai Art Museum is Kathleen’s Five restaurant. After the Dragonair Emerging Chinese Artist Awards in 2006, Kathleen’s Five auctioned off some pieces from the twenty finalists for an AIDS charity.

The fact that art is not just marginalized to museums, but is thriving in large and small gallery spaces sprouting up all over Shanghai neighborhoods – even overflowing into dining venues – proves that contemporary art culture is alive, well and fully supported in Shanghai these days. This is not a slow moving European city that tries to resist change and search for comfort in the distant past. Monthly changes are happening at every level – artistically and architecturally – that is why Shanghai is worth visiting at least once. If you can manage to get there twice, life is treating you well.

TRAVEL TIPS

Astor House Hotel
15 Huangpu Road Tel: 86.21.6325.1918
Dating back to 1846, Astor House is the oldest hotel in Shanghai. This renovated and beautiful landmark, with its neo-classic Baroque architecture, rooms with high ceilings, and woodwork that just can’t be found in modern hotels is one of the many reasons to stay at the Astor House Hotel. The location is great too. Back in the day, Charlie Chaplin and Albert Einstein were guests here.

The Portman-Ritz Carlton
Nanjing Xi Lu, Shanghai Tel: 86.21.6279.8888
Continually rated as the top business hotel in Asia, the Portman-Ritz Carlton Shanghai is a classic choice in Shanghai, as it is 100% accommodating for business travelers. There is a sophisticated gym, classy jazz bar and an excellent clubroom.

The Westin Shanghai
Bund Center, 88 Henan Central Road Shanghai 200002 Tel: 86.21.6335.1888
These days, the stylish Westin is the place to be and to be seen. It has a stunning and open lobby, and the rooms are well appointed, modern, comfortable and classy. The weekend Fun-day brunch should not be missed, as it is possibly the best in the world.

Le Royal Méridien Shanghai
789 Nanjing Road East Tel: 86.21.3318.9999
Trendy, hip, stylish and young is the best way to describe Le Royal Méridien in Shanghai. Its many restaurant and lounge outlets may keep you in the complex the entire weekend. The top floor bar and lounge should not be missed, as they offer unparalleled views of Shanghai.

Bali Laguna
Jingan Park, 189 Huashan Lu Tel. 86.21.6248.6970
This Balinese restaurant occupies three stories in an Indonesian inspired house. The already romantic ambience is enhanced with couples in love. When the weather permits, dine on the outdoor terrace that overlooks a tranquil lily pond.
Foreign Culture Club (FCC)
Bldg 11-12, 889 Julu Lu Tel: 86.21.6445.8082
The Foreign Culture Club is situated in a beautiful colonial mansion. It is a chic dining facility with four outlets, which include a Vietnamese restaurant, Mediterranean dining, a patisserie and two lounges. There is an H2O bar stocked with bottled water from around the world. Mix and match food from both Mediterranean and Vietnamese menus.
Glamour Bar
7F, 20 Guangdong Lu Tel: 86.21.6350.9988
The clientele is an eclectic mix of Shanghai’s older and more sophisticated Chinese and expatriate crowd. Its art deco style and smooth, soft lounge music will make you feel glamorous, like your in a 1930s Hollywood set of an opulent Shanghai night.
M on the Bund
7F, 20 Guangdong Lu Tel: 86.21.6350.9988
Serving brunch and afternoon tea on the weekends, plus amazing dinner daily, this Shanghai epicurean landmark is here to stay. The décor is sophisticated and comfortable, and the view from the terrace makes Sunday brunch or afternoon tea an absolute treat. Reservations are a must!

Palladio
Nanjing Xi Lu Tel: 86.21.6279.8888
Some of the most honest Italian fare in Shanghai; the wine list is extensive. The dining room is gorgeous, and al fresco seating in the summer is fabulous.

Thai Gallery
127 Datian Road 86.21.6217.9797
See article…

Dragonfly Spa
www.dragonfly.net.cn
With various locations all around Shanghai, Dragonfly Spa is a high quality, clean and reasonably priced place to receive shiatsu, aromatherapy, or foot massages. Some locations also do manicures and pedicures.

Text by Visual Sponge Project: Press – Mi Soon Burzlaff
All photos by Studio 504 – Vincent Sung (+82.2.2235-8364)

Produced/Coordination by Visual Sponge Project: