Live From The Nirvana Cafe
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The coffee here at the Nirvana Café tastes like black silk. The armchairs are faded red velvet. The music is something languid and lonesome, featuring a violin. Above, a ceiling fan slowly turns. I’m going to like it in Saigon. Matador friends and family – I’m back, and I missed you guys. For two months my laptop languished in a metal safe in Phnom Penh while I led a group of high-school students on a rugged travel program in Cambodia. Now I have a month in Saigon, two cool roommates and an apartment right around the corner from the Nirvana Café. Dragons In Cambodia The program I led in Cambodia was with Where There Be Dragons, a remarkable company that organizes “learning adventures in the developing world”. The Matador Fund raises money to send exceptional inner-city youth on Dragons programs. I can’t say enough great things about Dragons. Leading the Cambodia program was inspiring, empowering and rewarding. It was one of the hardest things I’ve ever done. Imagine – my job was to take 12 teenagers from privileged backgrounds into Cambodia and shatter their reality, to show them beauty in simplicity, to press their noses into hardship and ugliness, to push them to discover how far they can go, how much they can do and how easy it is to change the world. Awake In The World There was blood and there were tears. There were moments of exhaustion and uncertainty and exhilaration. For eight weeks, for every second of every day, I was fully engaged with the world in a way that’s impossible to achieve when traveling solo, let alone when sitting somewhere comfortable with a laptop. We slept in front of Buddha on a temple floor in a village no foreigners had visited since before the Khmer Rouge, then awoke before dawn to do yoga on a hilltop, salutations to the rising sun. We ate in family homes on the banks of the Mekong River. We traveled by pick-up truck, bamboo train, pony cart, tuk tuk, mini-bus and fishing boat. Losing My Self And Finding Joy There’s an ancient Tibetan saying that goes: “Self cherishing is the root of all suffering.” In Cambodia, I had no time to brood about myself or indulge in distractions. No beer. No sleeping late. No procrastinating. No lazy Internet surfing. No chasing girls. Every moment was infused with a sense of purpose. I’ve never felt more fulfilled. Now I’m alone again, responsible to no one but myself. The challenge is to stay engaged, to find a way to take the inspiration of Dragons and channel it into my writing, my work and my daily routine. So, Matador friends and family, I want you to push me. I want you to inspire me. I want you to remind me every day that we can be the change we want to see in the world. Dragons was a collision with truth, a full-on confrontation with the fact that we all have a responsibility greater than ourselves. As travelers, we need that profound sense of responsibility, and we need a community to push us to work harder, dream bigger and look out for each other along the way. Part of me wants to put the laptop back in the safe and engage face-to-face with the real world. If it wasn’t for Matador, that’s exactly what I’d do. But this community is a chance to create something new and powerful, something vibrant and real. We can challenge each other, support each other and connect with each other. We can make this community as strong as we want it to be, and carry that energy and passion into projects in the real world. I don’t know who’s going to read this. But I love that I can reach out to you, and you can reach out to me. |

Hi Tim,
Brilliant post - very inspirational. You ring home what a travel lifestyle can look like if you take full advantage of it. I think as a full-time traveler it is easy to take our daily experiences and adventures for granted and not to understand how much impact they can carry if they are harnessed correctly; I'm starting to work with kids too and watching their eyes open to the world is amazing.
Great stuff! Good luck "assimilating" again!
yo, sounds like one helluva trip.. very cool. leading trips of kids is always interesting, because as the leader you don't necessarily know what the eff you're doing, but the kids are obliviously to this fact and think you're completely in control. good times. fun experience.
I'll be in Thailand/laos/cambodia (or at least 2 of the 3) from Oct. 12 to Oct 25. If it works, we'll have to cross paths, talk shit about tmagner and drink.
(we're trying to get to laos for the gibbon experience..)
actually, let me bounce an idea off you..
I only have two weeks my trip is looking like this..
fly to chiang mai (1 day), take a bus to laos, do gibbon experience, then either go back to chiang rai and fly south to beaches, or go travel through laos to namtha prabang. (we also want to hit up cambodia too, but this might be spreading ourselves too thin in two weeks. the flights are necessary given the short trip).
thoughts? my buddy and I aren't wed to any of this, so if you have a better two week itin suggestion, PLEASE hit me up.
anyway, welcome back to the world (3rd).
Also, do you fly into BKK or Chiang Mai? Get to Chiang Mai, stay 2 nights at You Sabai cooking school / Pun Pun Farm, overland to the Gibbon X, do something creative to get to Luang Prabang 3 nights, 3 nights in Luang Prabang, fly to LPP to Siem Reap, bus back to Bangkok. That's a suggestion. Or just stick to N. Thailand and Laos. We can talk.
Thanks Stu, right on - I'll be traveling in N. Thailand those same dates, and have been thinking of doing the Gibbon X. Maybe we could make do a Matador meet-up in Laos, reserve the whole eco-lodge. Or in Thailand at Pun Pun Farm. At any rate, we will definitely talk shit about TMagner. Wonder what beach he's on now.
Hmmm....
-Tim
Tim - this article is missing a few things. Mention of emergency relays on the beach, bok lahome, eye hugs and ponies just to name a few - ahhhhh it was a great summer buddy!
Thank you for being an amazing co-instructor Tim - your enthusiasm, positivity and warmth continue to inspire me.
Thank YOU for being an awesome bawng, Allana.
Pony ride video is at this link:
http://www.jaunted.com/story/2008/8/26/95341/7821/travel/Embedded+Travel+Guide+Cambodia:+How+to+Travel+Like+a+Local
What a rewarding experience!
You've got to check out Ian's post - "Does your path have heart?" - http://www.ianmack.com/does-your-path-have-heart/
What a beautiful coincidence - I'm reading The Teachings of Don Juan right now.
"For me there is only the traveling on the paths that have heart, on any path that may have heart. There I travel, and the only worthwhile challenge for me is to traverse its full length. And there I travel—looking, looking, breathlessly."
i'm proud of you, hermanito. i can only imagine how much it meant to these young people to have you as a guide and role model. hell yes. and now we continue downstream, it just keeps getting better. big up.
thanks big brother, praise from you means a lot.
well said. write as much as you can now cause im dragging you back, well beyond the reach of WiFi, across mountain boarders without visas to live with a armed rebels in _______. Ok, i'll will yet you decide how and when to revel the details of our next adventure.
life is a garden, dig it!
www.idioimagers.org
Haha, Kachin, here we come!
Glad it was rewarding for you; I'm sure it was tenfold for the kids. Sounds like an amazing journey.
I'm a high school orchestra teacher, and I'm always looking for ways to get my students to think about others and share their talents in a meaningful way. If you can think of any projects that would be good for us, I'm all ears.
Thanks for the note! The thing that was most eye-opening to me about working with adolescents was how eager they are to rise to a challenge and how responsive they are to criticism and praise.
Getting them way, way out of their comfort zones is the key to Dragons programs. The kids are shocked and awed to be in Cambodia, and are totally receptive to whatever instructors want them to do.
I don't have a specific idea of what's best for you to do to challenge your students, but I know that many schools send delegations to music events and such worldwide, and there must be scholarships available for qualified students.
Give them a big challenge, push them hard and (though it's hard to do so if you're stuck in the school) push them as far out off their comfort zone as you can.
Thanks again for reaching out.
Cheers. I need to find a job like that.
Thanks Turner -
http://wheretherebedragons.com/staff.employ.qual.html