Just as Americans who first hear about Switzerland think of clocks, chocolate and cheese, when I envisioned Texas, I saw imaginary cowboys chasing after large cattle herds through grassy bush land or oil tycoons reigning over multi-billion estates the way J.R. Ewing did in the TV show Dallas. That picture didn’t disappear even after I crossed the second largest state in the Union more than a decade ago. I followed the interstate back then from Houston to El Paso and then drove my VW bus up I-10 into New Mexico. The only impression that I was left with from Texas concerned its vastness and the question “Does this state never end?”

After two trips to Texas this year – one in May, the other in September – I completely changed my mind. The Lone Star State, as Texas is often referred to, is unbelievably rich in its landscapes as well as its cultural heritage. Texas offers adventures for the lone traveler, the romantic couple and the fun-loving family. Its cities are among the most populated in the United States. These metropolitan centers have created local economies that support multiple entertainment venues, which invite travelers to enjoy music, art, or simple family fun. For nature lovers who shy away from crowds, Texas presents exquisite and diverse wildlife. Outdoor adventurers will easily find their preferred pastime be it rafting a river, climbing rocky mountain cliffs, surfing down a sand dune, or trekking long distances through the desert. In short, I decided that visiting Texas twice is not enough. Instead, I am determined to go back and explore other off-Interstate areas and cities such as Austin, Brownsville and Lubbock that I have not seen yet.

But let me tell you what I have been able to discover about Texas during my two trips in 2007. In spring, my friend dragged me to her favorite spot in Texas – The Big Bend National Park Area. Texas is divided into seven regions: the Gulf Coast, Hill Country, the Panhandle Plains, Piney Wood, Prairies and Lakes, the South Texas Plains, and Big Bend Country. The Big Bend National Park encompasses more than 800,000 acres and is located at the foot of the Chisos Mountains, which along with the Rio Grande form part of this region’s border to Mexico. The Rio Grande’s muddy and untamed waters first and foremost remind me of Karl May’s Winnetou trilogy. While these Wild West novels, ecstatically loved by children in Germany, never were as successful in the United States, the Rio Grande was first introduced to me while reading about the adventures of the peace-loving Apache hero Winnetou and his German companion Old Shatterhand. Seeing the river with my own eyes brought back all those adventurous feelings from my childhood fantasies. I again envisioned myself riding on a black mustang along the dangerous and wild landscapes on the banks of the Rio Grande.

Stomping through the soft mud along the Rio Grande, I was not really surprised to see an alligator-like head pop up on the brown water surface. Eventually I pointed two small heads out to my friend and wondered what baby alligators are doing in the Rio Grande. Soon we discovered a large turtle sunning itself on the opposite bank and after further investigation determined the little “alligator heads” belonged to the same turtle species. Big Bend’s wildlife is mostly nocturnal, however, most of the 450 bird species in this area are active during the day. Keep your eyes open and you’ll encounter other animals such as snakes, turtles, spiders, javelinas, deer, coyotes, squirrels, lizards, gray foxes, skunks, raccoons, jackrabbits or the more elusive black bears, beavers and mountain lions who make this desert their home. Spring, preferably between March and early May, is the best time to explore the Big Bend National Park, as many of more than 1,200 plant types are in full bloom.

One of the hikes I recommend is the 5.2-mile Window Trail, which is accessible from the Chisos Basin Trailhead. Thousands of years of erosion managed to carve and polish the gorge at the end of the path. Take along plenty of water and avoid mid-day temperatures, which can be grueling. At the end of the trail, be aware of the slippery rock. A fall through the Window would be lethal. The view, however, is breathtaking. You will see right into the Chisos Basin of Mexico. Do not attempt this walk when it’s raining. A flash flood would simply flush you off the rock, which drops straight down for hundreds of feet. You may enjoy other vistas into Mexico along the Rio Grande, which some Mexicans cross to sell their handcrafted goods. Before the Trade Center Towers in New York fell to the terrorist attacks of 2001, two Mexican villages – Boquillas and Santa Elena – were accessible to American visitors. However, since 2001 the borders were closed. Boquillas has basically vanished and since tourism was a major income for these Mexican villagers, they saw themselves forced to desert their homes. A few lone, dilapidated houses remain as a sad reminder of additional victims of the terror attacks. Talking about border control, be prepared to see patrols throughout the park. You will also likely be stopped at a checkpoint once you leave Big Bend. My experience with a drug dog ended happily with intense tail wiggling after the pup sniffed throughout the car and determined that the lovely smell must have come from one of our snacks rather than illegal drugs.

Visitors may choose to stay at the only motel-like lodgings in the Basin area of the park near the Panther Junction next to the park's headquarters or put up their tent at one of the official campsites. Another option is to find a bed outside the park at Marathon or Terlingua. In its heyday, Terlingua was home to more than 2,000 people. Now this little settlement has shrunk to a little over 200 in population. However, it has seen something like a revival from newcomers who fell in love with the place and established leisure homes. Travelers may want to check out the Terlingua Ranch, which offers guided tours for hiking, rafting, mountain biking, and horseback riding. If you’re in the Big Bend area in November and you like chili, Terlingua is a must. Each year on the first Saturday in November, the town holds the International Championship Chili Cook-offs.

This past spring, however, we chose to stay in Marathon from where we traveled to our next destination Fredericksburg. As its name indicates, this town is a German settlement. The neat city center targets a large tourist population. I can only recommend a stroll along the main road, which is lined with specialty shops selling everything from wood craft, to hand-made quilts, dog supplies, pillows, kitchen ware, leather binders, and much more. For lunch I recommend the authentic sausage sampler at the Lindenbaum restaurant, but leave some space for the Schwarzwälder chocolate cake. German settlers left their marks throughout this area of Hill Country. All along Highway 290, you can read German signs. When you see a marker to Luckenbach, follow it.

Luckenbach is a tiny hamlet near Fredericksburg – a must-see for any visitor. It consists of a dance hall, a general store that also serves as a beer tavern, and a toilet building. A truly unique entertainment venue, this location invites musicians to spontaneously perform under the large Oak Tree next to the general store on Sunday afternoons. Not far from Luckenbach and seven miles from Fredericksburg on Highway 290, you will pass the Wildseed Farms, the largest working wildflower farm in the United States. The viewfinder on my camera worked overtime as I walked through vast flower fields and entered the 3,000-square-foot Butterfly Haus. Make sure you don’t squash any of these fragile insects as they rest not only on the lush plants, but also on your clothing.

Leaving Fredericksburg behind, we finally drove to Rocksprings in our quest to find millions of bats. The landscape along the way changed to green meadows. Since rain has been plentiful in the area this year, creeks and ponds were overflowing to the point that the road on some points became part of a small creek. As soon as you spot 6-8-foot fencing of meadows and bush land, keep your eyes open for exotic animals. This is the area famous for its exotic hunting ranches. You may see Axis Deer, Sika Deer, Black Buck Antelopes, Catalina Goats, Corsica Rams, Russian Boar Hogs or even some Rhea, which are ostrich-like birds. Rocksprings is home to about 1,000 people and features two motels and the historic Rocksprings Hotel – which is currently under renovation but still open to guests. Visitors come here for hunts and to view the bats at the Devil’s Sinkhole. The Devil’s Sinkhole State Natural Area is only accessible by tour; call ahead for reservations and to find out when the bus will leave for the bat viewing. Every night right before sunset millions of bats rise out of the Devil’s Sinkhole in a tornado-like formation.

Watching the bats rise out of the underground cave is such a phenomena that we chose to return to Rocksprings during our September visit. The drought in many southern states has likely forced many Mexican free-tailed bats to relocate to Texas. Even the tour guides were astonished to see the amount of bats, which escaped in the first week of September into the evening skies in search of food. The bats literally created their own wind, and we had to move back from a viewing platform at the edge of the sinkhole to avoid the tiny mammals. Owls and hawks hang out in the treetops surrounding the sinkhole, preying on the bats for an easy meal, and if you are lucky you may even observe a snake on the rocks leaning forward to snatch a bat as it zooms past.

Our next stop during our September trip was San Antonio. While my friend had told me about the Alamo and the Riverwalk, I was still surprised to see that San Antonio’s Downtown was so large. I imagined the Alamo would be on the outskirts of the city and was pleasantly surprised to find it centrally located only a few blocks from the 2.5-mile Riverwalk. Tourists form long queues to enter the Alamo, named after Secundo Volante Compania de San Carlos de Parras del Alamo. The first mission building was erected in 1718 and nearly a century later new establishments at the Alamo became a central stage in the fight of Mexican independence from Spain. In 1836 when American settlers fought for their independence from Mexico, the Mexican leader Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna marched against the Alamo and conquered it. Only six weeks later, Texan forces under Sam Houston defeated the Mexicans near the location that now bears Houston’s name. The Republic of Texas was born. Texas finally joined the United States in 1846. The Alamo, which was basically destroyed by retreating Mexican forces, was renovated under U.S. rule and used as a quartermaster depot until 1876 when the property was sold. Only the church remained in state hands and was renovated. Today the Alamo stands as a symbol of independence.

While the Alamo may be a major destination bringing tourists to San Antonio, the city is certainly equipped for masses of visitors offering arts and crafts stands along the river’s clean walkways, posh stores in the Riverwalk Mall, inviting kitsch stands in the Market Square at Downtown’s west side and the historic King Williams District. Nightlife is abundant with cruising riverboats transformed into floating dinner islands docked next to the restaurant and bar section of the Riverwalk. What surprised me most about San Antonio was the ever presence of the early German settlers. Once in a while a German name pops up on a sign. And the city actively protects its heritage. The St. Josef Catholic Church next to the Riverwalk to this day offers mass in German once a month.

San Antonio, of course, is big enough to feature typical American family fun destinations such as the Six Flags amusement park, Sea World, the Zoo, the Wild Animal Orphanage, and the Children’s Museum – just to name a few. Don’t miss the “African safari Texas style” offered at the Natural Bridge Wildlife Ranch adjacent to the Natural Bridge Caverns. For animal lovers it is a chance to experience close encounters with such species as zebras, ostriches, bison, emus and more than 40 other species. The animals will come up to your car and are used to being hand-fed. The only rule is to never leave your car’s safety. Have your video cameras ready, instruct your children to respect the animals, and you’ll have a wonderful time.

Unfortunately our time was rather limited on both trips. I already decided that the next Texas city on my list is Austin. I’ve heard many exciting things about Austin, which is known as a music center. Being Swiss it took me a while to get used to the famous Nashville twang. Now, however, I am likely ready for the famous Austin country tunes. Besides, as a bat lover, I hear Austin has its own bat colony that spreads its wings each evening from under the Congress Avenue Bridge. That’s certainly worth a visit.