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The alarm clock goes off. It’s six o’clock. Mark and I are still holding each other. It doesn’t really help. Our body heat seems to have evaporated. We are two ice cubes, attached, holding our
position in the warmest spot of the bed.
My winter hat kept my ears comfy during the night. My nose peeks out from under the covers and
immediately freezes. At least, that’s
how it feels. Our breath creates white
puffs of clouds. We don’t feel like
getting up and emerge in the cold air.
Another day on the waterway awaits us, so we have to get moving in order
to leave at first daylight.Then, it all comes down to speed. As quickly as we can, we jump out of bed and
grab all our layers. I kept a few
clothes under the sheets, so they would cause less of a shock when I put them
on… Undies, tight shirt, long sleeved
shirt, T-shirt, sweatshirt, fleece, pyjama pants, socks to tuck ‘m into, jeans,
another pair of socks, rain pants, shoes, Mark’s ski jacket, and the hat stays
on. The sailing gloves come on after
breakfast. That’s a little tough,
because my fingers feel numb. Better
than nothing, though, since we don’t have winter gloves.Our first steps on deck are
precarious. We both slipped before on
the icy surface. After taking the dogs
to shore (Mark’s the one getting out of the dinghy and into the water to pull
it on shore, because he has rubber boots) and finagling with the lines to get
the thing attached to the boat, we are ready to leave. Hours on end, we suck it up in the ice cold
cockpit. The north wind doesn’t have
mercy. One hand steers, while the other
is tucked away between our legs. Even a
pocket is too cold. Mark and I take
turns steering and navigating. Neither
one of us is motivated or able to do anything else. We quietly wished we had dodgers, but knowing
the expense, we quickly get rid of that thought. Other sailboats pass us. They have full enclosures. Their owners waive, with a frown on their
face and pity in their eyes. They’re not
even wearing foul weather gear! We take
pride in roughing it and feeling one with the elements. We are pure sailors/motorists! They are wimps and they can barely see what
they are doing! Anyway, that’s why we’re
going south. Then, what will they do
with their full enclosure? All that
extra plastic and canvas will just be a hassle and we will be hassle-free! Kali and Darwin are curled up in a ball. They appreciate the thick blankets we put out
for them.After anchoring, we rig up some kind of
heating system with our camping stove and a cookie sheet. We plot our course for the next day, with all
our clothes on. For dinner, we decide to
make something in the oven. For once we
don’t mind it takes hours to prepare something in there. I enjoy the heat against my back, when I sit
down next to the oven door. Of course
I’m blocking the warmth for everybody else…And then it’s eight o’clock: bed time. We get rid of our outer layers, but keep
socks, pants, a couple of shirts, and hat on.
A few clothes will come off later, when the bed slowly warms up. My hands make one last movement in the cold
air to set the alarm clock. The dogs are
huddled on their blanket next to the bed.
We close the bedroom door to keep all generated heat inside. It makes a big difference. Our conclusion of the day is the same as the
previous days: It sucks to sail in cold weather. We gotta go south! Not that we aren’t trying, we’re just barely
making progress.About a week later, a friendly man lends us
his car, and Walmart provides us with a small propane heater. That takes the chill out of the air. It sure helps to get our day started less
painfully.About two months later, we are in Central Florida and hope these experiences are well
past. It sure makes it easier to write
about it, wearing shorts and T-shirt, with fingers staying stiff-less…
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This is an incredible journey--where were you docked at? Are you moving up the East North-American coast?
-JB
"Seriousness is stupidity sent to college." -P.J. O'Rourke
Perpetual Nomads
Hey JB,
This was just a random day along the ICW (Intracoastal Waterway) on the East Coast of the US. This "highway for boats" runs kind of parallel with the Atlantic Ocean. Most of the cold, we encountered in Virginia and the Carolinas or when a cold front came through in Georgia and even Florida. That'll teach us to head South a little earlier "next time". November is a tad late to be hanging around on a boat in these states. We always anchor out (free!), except in emergencies. Marinas are not really our thing for plenty of reasons, but that's another story! :-)