Where you go for a pint (also known as 'a glass', or 'a jar') in Belfast depends greatly on your mood at the time. If you're interested in something a bit historical, the Crown Liquor Saloon on Great Victoria Street, near the city centre, is one obvious choice. It's a beautifully preserved Victorian pub with intricately carved wooden snugs for passing the time with friends over a pint of Guinness, or whatever drink you prefer. ("What's yers?" the barman will ask.)

The Crown also serves lunch, though lunchtime can get incredibly busy, and the word from the barstaff is that the food is better in the restaurant upstairs. Sitting under the large wooden beams of Flannigan's upstairs, you'll feel as if you've traveled back a few centuries. While waiting for your order -- the seafood dishes are excellent -- take in the wise words inscribed in delicate white script upon the walls: "Choose your company before ye sit," and "It is better to be alone than to be in bad company." ("Oh, aye," you might nod upon reading this, having picked up a few Belfast-isms.)

Another atmospheric drinking joint is White's Tavern, a not to be missed, 17th century pub on Winecellar Entry, an old side street in the city centre that sits in a small web of entryways between High Street and Ann Street. You'll know you're in Ireland, sitting with a friend and a pint in this low-ceilinged tavern with Irish music playing in the background.

For a more modern slant, head for the trendier joints in the city centre -- Northern Whig on Bridge Street is optimal for classic modern looks and high quality of atmosphere, food and drink. And don't be daunted by the large statues of old communist political leaders the owner had lugged over from some former eastern bloc countries. Just smile and raise a glass to their health.

Aunty Anne's on the Dublin Road is another very popular, lively place for drinks, as is Apartment, right across from City Hall on Donegal Square West. With a sedately modern decor, Apartment is a popular spot for a meal or just drinks with appetizers, which the locals love to do. The coffee bar downstairs is perfect for a quick hot drink, often needed unless you're in Belfast in summertime. Nothing chases the chilliness out of a Northern day like a pot of tea and a warm buttered scone.

Quirkier than Apartment, with interesting modern art here and there, is Altos on Fountain Street, a great cafe for a delicious, artfully prepared lunch between shopping stints in the city centre. The Fountain Pub is right nearby, a bit cheaper in price and more old world pub style. After your fish and chips, try their warm apple crisp with fresh cream, and you'll wonder why you took so long to visit this delightful country.

To return to the drinking -- a Northern Irish friend once confessed that the best Guinness to be had is in Dublin, as Guinness is brewed in the Republic of Ireland, and "doesn't travel well." But this is a rare admission; Northerners usually claim superiority over all things southern, while they mimic Dublin accents, a favor cheerfully returned by the southern Irish, who make fun of all things Northern.

Still, a pint in the North has a frothy charm to it, and local humor and friendliness make it go down all the easier. Less expensive and easier to get around than Dublin or London, Belfast is always ready to offer a fun day or night out. Northerners love visitors, and after nearly ten years of peace, the Northern Irish counties are there to be enjoyed.

Just don't expect to travel too far without "doin' a wee bit of drankin'," even if it's only a coke yer havin', and be prepared for the locals' wanting to pay for your drink, while asking, "Where ya from then?".