Mysterious Loch Ness (and some midges too)
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One thing I realized in Scotland was that I didn't know nearly as much about the country as I thought I did. A good case in point is Loch Ness. Naturally I had heard of it and seen that famous photo of a mysterious creature in the lake, but I had always assumed that it was just one lake in many in the Highlands, and that its only distinguishing feature was that people thought there was a monster inside. What I found after a few days in Fort Augustus was that Loch Ness is actually a very, very interesting lake, apart from all the talk of Nessie. The lake sits on a fault line, meaning it's extremely narrow but so deep that it holds more fresh water than the rest of British lakes and rivers combined. The lake has a population of Arctic charr, trapped in the loch outside of their usual saltwater territory since the last ice age. Considering this, is it so farfetched to think there's a monster somewhere down there? We stayed in Fort Augustus, though there are many other towns on the Loch. While there is a definite shortage of affordable, nice-looking restaurants, I would definitely recommend it, if only for the Clansman Centre. Here's a rundown of Fort Augustus. The Good The Clansman Centre Another thing I knew nothing about prior to this trip was the reality of Highland life. The show they put on at the Clansman Centre spares no detail of the hard scrabble life of the clans before the Clearances. I don't remember what they charge for the show, but it was definitely worth it. One lucky lad and lass will get to try on a kilt. Be sure you're wearing clean underwear before you volunteer. The So-So A Loch Ness cruiseLess worth the money was the one-hour Loch Ness cruise we did. The views of the loch were nice and the sonar was fun, but neither were 9 pounds worth of fun, unless you're a true Nessie believer. The Ugly Urquhart CastleWe couldn't be bothered to pay 6 and a half pounds for admission to a ruined castle. Seeing it from the parking lot was atmospheric enough, even if the staff came out of the visitors' centre to shoo us off the stone wall we were standing on. Apparently they are planting trees so that in the future you won't be able to see the castle for free from the road. The ruined castle. Which presumably doesn't require much upkeep. Oh, and the midges. Perhaps the true monsters of Loch Ness. Bring some industrial bug spray. |

Nice blog, good tips. I drove past Loch Ness on New Years day 2000 but was far too hungover to stop and check out some of the sites you have mentioned. I might mention I was in the passenger seat as well! But, I intend to return and learn a little more about the clearances since my family was caught up in that. The Scottish diaspora is something incredible...last year I wrote an article for the Scotsman newspaper about scottish settlements in Surinam and well, my interest for the country to the north has been awakened. Cheers.
www.rmccoll.co.uk
Hey, sorry to hear you were so underwhelmed by Urquhart Castle! I really enjoyed it, but then again I got in for half-price (had an English Heritage membership, which gets you discounts at Scottish Heritage sites too...) so it's easier for me to feel I got my money's worth.
I also enjoyed walking from the castle back to Drumnadrochit, a hilarious town that's full of tacky gift shops and Nessie statues even though it's not on the loch. It's about a two or three mile walk with some nice loch views and countryside.
We passed through Drumnadrochit as well and I agree that is definitely the capital of tacky gift shops. One of the ladies on our tour bought a tartan garter that plays "Scotland the Brave." It doesn't get any tackier...