Scuba Diving (and some hiking) in the UAE

By YoLeven  |  Location: United Arab Emirates  |  04/03/08

OK, granted, the first thing that comes to mind when someone brings up "scuba diving in the Middle East" is a spot like the Blue Hole or Sharm al-Sheikh in the Red Sea.  However, I had the opportunity recently to experience a somewhat less visited dive spot in the United Arab Emirates.  Most visitors to the UAE are really there for Dubai, and, yes, there is diving at any of its numerous waterfront resorts and hotels.  But, as any local (read:expat) will tell you, visibility is pretty much shot along the Dubai coast anyway with all the dredging being done for new construction projects.  Furthermore, Dubai, you will find, lives up to its ranking as the world's 3rd most expensive city to vacation in, with a decent hotel starting at an average of $170 a night (though, there is a youth hostel there), and food and drinks priced out of this world.   In order to escape this fate, I discovered a very small operation on the east coast of the UAE, about 100 miles away.  To orient those who are not familiar with the local geography, the UAE is directly to the south of Iran, across the Persian (or "Arabian", if you're talking to an Arab) Gulf.  If you reach the east coast of the UAE, you are actually now on the Gulf of Oman, or Indian Ocean, side - this is the side where I spent three and a half days diving.  What makes this stretch of coastline so appealing is that it contains a coral reef and a cool array of aquatic life, such as sea turtles, pufferfish, moray eels, manta rays, reef sharks, and barracuda, just to name a few.  This stretch of coastline is owned by the emirate of Fujairah and has a very different vibe than Dubai.  Whereas Dubai is more nightlife-a-go-go, Fujairah is way more laid back, with a focus on a few dive/snorkeling resorts and shops.  Honestly, when compared to Abu Dhabi or Dubai, the emirate of Fujairah is pretty much considered a backwater destination.  This environment gives it a much more local, off-the-beaten path, feel.  It's also a lot cheaper and a lot more scenic, as the coastal backdrop gives rise to mountains, canyons, wadis with waterfalls and rock pools, providing for some gorgeous hiking opportunities within a 15-minute drive (which I made sure to take advantage of).  For what it's worth, I liked the experience enough to schedule a return trip 2 months from now to get my Advanced Open Water at the same location.

So, here's some quick stats/evals on the experience:

Water Visibility: 3-17 meters.

Water Temperature: Not quite tropical, but I first went in March and was mostly comfortable in a wetsuit.  In summer, there'd be no problem with being too cold.

Cost: You can make this as cheap or expensive as you want.  The operation I went through was basically a sole proprietorship, where you could camp on the beach or the "back yard" for free if you were diving at his facility; the rooms were about $65 a night, but nothing fancy.  If you want, you can spend upwards of $1500 a night at one of the really nice resorts there.  You can also stay at the nearby Youth Hostel in Khorfakkan for about $15 a night. If you're looking for a PADI certification course, look at spending around $550 on average to get you through the Open Water Course in 2-3 days.  Here is the place where I stayed (highly recommended if you're traveling on budget, or just don't feel like spending hundreds of dollars for a resort) : www.scuba-2000.com 

Environmental Impact:  You can already begin to see some small waterfront residential developments being contructed by dredging the coastline.  While not nearly on the same scale as Dubai, it was somewhat disheartening to see.  I hope it doesn't destroy the coral reef, but much of that will depend on whether the pace and amount of construction is regulated wisely by the government.

Authenticity:  You can choose to eat at local restaurants or eat in the resort restaurants (if you choose this route).  The staff where I stayed will prepare a home-cooked meal for you after a dive.  You can even choose to buy local produce at one of the many open markets and stands.  Again, you can make this as elaborate or expensive as you choose.

Sideshows:  If you visit, check out Wadi Wuraya (only about a 15-minute drive into the mountains) for a great day-hike.  There are two rock pools deep into the wadi that can only be accessed by foot, but it is well worth the extra effort once you reach them.  It takes about a total of 50 minutes of walking and rock-hopping to get to them.

 

Overall, I give this trip 4 out of 5 stars.  I found its biggest advantage in that it didn't feel touristy or gimmicky.  That may all change of course.  But, for now, it still retains some charm.  Hopefully, I included enough info, but let me know if I left something important out or if you want to know more details about some aspect of this trip.

Cheers.

 

Links you might be interested in:

Hostels:  http://www.uaeyha.com

Scuba Diving info: www.padi.com

 

 

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