Ko Tao, 7 Oct ‘08

I’m sitting on an idyllic beach at Taa Toh Bay on Ko Tao, sipping a Singha and listening to classic rock and reggae tunes from the bar. The beautiful afternoon sun is glistening on the water of this quiet, palm-lined bay. Free of the prosperous resorts, pushy dive shops and noisy longboats prevalent at Sairee Beach, this peaceful cove provides a relaxing getaway from the crowds. Surprisingly few people line the beach, mostly couples enjoying a private swim or kayak outing. I spent the day exploring the island by motorbike (only 150 baht per day), searching in vain for the “viewpoints” and tourist attractions advertised on the map. After hiking up and down too many steep dirt roads (afraid to attempt them on the bike, I opted to toil by foot), I’ve concluded that “viewpoint” does not indicate a high rock or cliff from which you can enjoy a panoramic view of the island, as I was expecting. Instead I was met by construction sites, ominous “private property” signs threatening trespassers, and at best a collection of bungalows which would have decent views if you were staying there. It seems every meter of Ko Tao is privately owned, and if there’s not already a resort or private mansion, one is being built. Within a couple of years, I expect every inch of Ko Tao will be covered with bungalows and villas, much like the other popular islands in the area. But for now, it is possible to find small beaches like this one which retain the quiet mystery of this paradise island.

In spite of the rapid tourism expansion, Ko Tao has an inviting flavour not found on other islands like Ko Chang or Ko Samui. I think it’s born of the fact that many visitors stay here for a few weeks or even months at a time to complete diving courses. Unlike other islands which expect stays of a week or less, Ko Tao has to cater to a semi-residential crowd. That means they have to have restaurants with food and service good enough to keep customers coming back; prices for food, services and accommodation are a bit more competitive because people have time to search for the best prices; and night-life has to be varied and interesting enough to entertain people who return night after night. There are food markets and basic goods stores for those who stay in an apartment for a while, giving the area a sort of homey air – there is a sense of permanence and reality that you don’t get in the purely tourist towns. The Thai staff who live and work on the island tend to be friendlier and easier to get to know than those on other islands who see higher tourist turnover.

All in all, Ko Tao is probably the most beautiful and friendly island I’ve visited in Thailand. The water is literally transparent, the sand is white and soft, the weather is perfect, and the island is easily accessible. It’s definitely worth renting a motorbike (even better, a dirt bike) to explore the island – lots of quiet, picturesque beaches await. But beware the very dangerous dirt roads, and be sure that your bike has good brakes and the tires have good treads. In the evening, enjoy the sunset on Sairee Beach and sit on the sand to watch a fire show after dark. Go scuba diving, and make friends with your dive instructor – they can tell you the coolest places to go and the best things to see. Above all, relax and take in the laid-back vibe that permeates southern Thailand.