You don’t need to be a clubber to visit Ibiza. Marj Lefroy spends a week in this beautiful, misunderstood Mediterranean paradise.

Over the past 20 years the island of Ibiza, Spain, has transformed itself along with the electronic dance music industry to become a renowned ‘party island’. Kate Moss and Sienna Miller are regular visitors, and Jade Jagger has had a villa there for years. And all of this is on the back of its long-held reputation for glamour and hedonism.

But the reality of this beautiful Mediterranean destination is that plenty of discerning families, couples and friends come here for a classic beach holiday – and it’s this segment that experiences the best of Ibiza.

We joined some friends for a week on the island in early July, booking a villa via the Internet. This is peak party season as most of the nightclubs are only open during summer – but given all of us are well into the 30-something category with the best of our misspent youths behind us, our goal was R&R not wild-and-wasted.

Our villa was located just near San Jose in the idyllic south west of the island. It was three sandstone levels of modern living including 5 expansive bedrooms with their own bathrooms, a beautiful pool and deck area out the back and a rooftop overlooking the ocean that provided the ultimate backdrop for sunset libations.

The island is a good size – not too big or small, it takes about an hour to motor from top to bottom, and about half that across. It has an intimate, compact feel and yet there’s more than enough to keep the attention-deficient entertained. Inland is mostly sparse hinterland, but it’s the natural beauty of the coastline that catches your breath every time: soaring, rocky cliff tops descending to beach coves covered in white sand or pebbles and rows of lounges-for-rent, with thatched umbrellas dotted in between. 

Some beaches such as Las Salinas are geared towards the party set but most are perfectly tranquil. Wherever you are you’ll find there are few waves, which makes for a very leisurely dip for the surf-reluctant. Most beaches will have their own bar/restaurant/shack offering table and/or beach service, and sometimes a juice stand and a store or two – so you can settle in for a day of relaxation and people-watching. 

Our fellow holiday-makers were a mix of Europeans – from German families roasting their pale skin to bronzed Italians strutting around in Aviators and tight lycra hot pants (or, for the ladies, a cowboy hat, silver thong and not much else) and of course the sun-worshipping middle-aged couple from Nottingham tucking into their first pint at 11am. 

Topless sunbathing is popular, and it’s not just for the beautiful people. There are bits hanging out all over the place, and even the occasional nudist frolicking in the shallows. European sensibilities find this all quite unexceptional, particularly in Ibiza with its laid-back, ‘hippie chic’ vibe. And as the shadows lengthen, the sun glistens off the surface of the crystal-clear turquoise water, small boats bob on their moorings, cliffs frame the vista, swimmers become silhouettes and all is well with the world.

Evenings continued in a similarly blissful vein, often accompanied by San Miguel cerveza and dinner at a local restaurant such as the delightful Bar Espartada, fashion-conscious KM5 or Blue Marlin at the end of Cala Jondal.

However, undoubtedly the highlight was the day we spent on a chartered powerboat. The USD2,400 price tag caused some seasickness at first, but on the day it became clear very quickly that it was worth every single euro. We were sped across the water to various secluded spots, including nearby Formentera. The water here is just as bright green, and the sand just as white, as the best of the Caribbean – and filled with Eurotrash with serious, 60-foot-yacht cash. Make sure you book beforehand for lunch at the beachside Restaurante Juan Y Andrea – the scene is just as good as the exquisite seafood.

For those who feel the need to check the ‘historical sites’ box, take an hour to meander through the old town and fort in Eivissa. Here you’ll see much of what’s left from the Roman, Arab and Catalan occupiers who all have left their mark – and it serves as a reminder that Ibiza has been a hot spot for the rich and powerful (and the rest of us) for thousands of years.

THE LOW-DOWN

When: Summer, though busy, is the best time to go if you are a sun-seeker. You can expect plenty of sunshine and temperatures around 29°C/85°F. Otherwise, consider May-June or September-October – the island will be much quieter, though rain is more likely at these times.

Fly: It's a very short hop from Madrid or Barcelona to Ibiza Airport on Spain's national carrier, Iberia. If the time and cost of going that far seems daunting, consider tacking it onto the end of a longer European trip. 

Stay: Ibizavilla.com – 1-8 bedroom villas with pool available; our 5 bedroom villa cost €5,500 (around USD8,400) for 7 nights in the first week of July. Villa included parking space for 4 cars, a 12-metre swimming pool, air conditioning throughout the house, a laundry and gym in the basement, plasma TV with cable and DVD, CD player (bring a cable for your iPod if you have one), fully-equipped kitchen with stainless steel appliances, BBQ grill, 4 large terraces, rooftop access and (fairly perfunctory) cleaning service every other day. Supposedly internet access but we could not get it to work.

Motor: Whether you hire a small car or a 100CC scooter, it will cost you around $300 for 7 days. We loved the scooter during the day, but at night-time it was much more comfortable to hop into our companions’ car and avoid the wind-chill.

Cruise: Ibizamed.com – €1,595 (about USD2,400) per day for the very handsome and powerful Sunseeker 48 Superhawk with skipper. Boat includes cabin, ice box, CD player with speakers inside and out, sun pads for the front and back, and plenty of room for up to 10 people.

Beaches: There are nearly 30 to discover. Cala Moli, Cala Tarida, Cala Benniras (recently voted by the online edition of London’s The Times newspaper as the best beach holiday destination in the world) and Cala Jondal are definitely among those worth a visit.

Bypass: San Antonio, much of Eivissa town, and the nightclubs located in both. If you feel the need to experience the clubbing scene, Pascha is the answer – and ideally as a VIP if you can swindle it.