The dramatic sloping peaks of Volcanoes National Park (Parc National Des Volcans) provide what is arguably one of the world’s most poignant and memorable wildlife experiences.  Forming the natural border with the Democratic Republic of Congo, Rwanda’s most celebrated national park has become THE definitive place to see mountain gorillas.  The park was established in 1925 (Africa’s first national park) in an effort to protect the majestic creatures from poachers, and was made famous in the 1960’s by the tireless work and advocacy of Dian Fossey. Today, the Rwandan Tourism Board offers visitors several options for tracking gorillas and for further exploring the park. The highlight of the park is undoubtedly the gorillas themselves; however the experience comes with a price.

For travelers on a budget, the thought of forking over $500 to observe and photograph gorillas for an hour might make you a little queasy.  Undoubtedly, the rare experience of observing mountain gorillas in their remote habitat will be a memorable and unique opportunity that will likely evoke strong emotions for you and have envious friends back at home clamoring for pictures, but what the tourism board likes to keep on the mum is the fact that there are other opportunities for spotting the gorillas that are much easier on your wallet.  Park rangers will take visitors on 1 and 2 day treks to summit extinct volcanoes, on guided walks to Dian Fossey’s camp and tomb, and even on tracking expeditions to spot the Golden Monkey.  None of these cost more than $75, and since you’ll be in the heart of gorilla territory, the chance of spotting a family group are very, very good.

The park is located in the village of Kinigi, about 25 minutes by motorbike from Ruhengeri. While Ruhengeri is a bustling market town and good place to stock up on snacks and do any last minute banking, the town itself has little to offer, and unless you arrive late and need a place to crash for the night, I’d suggest moving on to Kinigi.

Savvy Crashing—Kinigi Guest House ($15-$50)

The Kinigi Guest House is located at the base of the Virunga range and just down the dirt road from the Park’s headquarters, making for great day time exploration and convenient early morning departures for the park. The guest house offers a range of accommodations from pitching your own tent, to 4 person dorms, to luxury suites, and like many hotels and guest houses in Rwanda, a simple breakfast is included. For value and location, this is definitely your best bet, and as an added bonus, nearly all of the proceeds generated by the guest house are used to pay school fees for orphaned children and to support community development projects. Reservations are generally recommended, but so long as you’re flexible, the staff will find a place for you to stay.

Savvy Activity—Trekking Mount Bisoke ($75)

Mount Bisoke (3711m) is a long, strenuous 1-day hike that can be completed by anyone with enough determination and a moderate level of athletic ability.  The trek follows trails created by buffalo, so the notion of leisurely switch-backs is obsolete; expect steep inclines. During the rainy season, these so-called trails are incredibly wet and muddy, so be sure to dress in layers, wear decent shoes, and be prepared to get dirty. Representatives at the park headquarters have a tendency to downplay the length and difficulty of this hike, and when they say it’s only 4 hours, they really mean 8. Bring food!

You’ll be hiking in gorilla territory so there is a very good chance that you will encounter a family group at some point during the day, but because you haven’t purchased a permit, taking photos is a big no-no. Your guide will kindly remind you of this should you find yourself in the presence of gorillas (and take this seriously, guides can lose their jobs over this!). The out and back hike reaches the turnaround point at the summit of Mt. Bisoke. From the banks of the crater lake, the 360 degree views of lush, green dramatic peaks is intoxicating, and punctuated only by the reality that just a few years ago, Mount Nyiragongo erupted, spilling an angry river of molten rock through nearby  towns and villages, and causing immense devastation to the region.

All park activities meet for an orientation at the park headquarters at 7am. After paying your fees and listening to a quick orientation, its off to the starting point. The Mount Bisoke trek starts at the base of the volcano located about 45 minutes by car from the park headquarters. It is expected that you have your own transportation to the starting point, however if you are an independent traveler who arrives by hitching, walking, or local transport, there will most likely be an open seat in one of the vehicles leaving from the park. Just ask around, you’ll find a ride.

**Savvy Tip—Bummed you didn’t get any photos of the gorillas? Buddy up to a few of your bunk mates back at your hotel and offer to buy a few rounds of Primus in exchange for a few of their photographs.

Savvy Finances—US dollars are king (Priceless)

The park does not take credit or debit cards or any kind, and prefers US dollars. If you do pay in Rwandan Shillings, be prepared to pay a bit extra as a penalty. Outside of Kigali, obtaining US dollars can be excruciatingly difficult, if not impossible, so come with cash in hand. Remember that Rwanda is a MasterCard only country, so make sure that your debit card is issued by MasterCard to ensure access to your funds back at home.

Savvy Eats—Village treats ($1)

Just beyond the park headquarters is the village center of Kinigi, consisting of a few small shops and a food stall or two. Kids kick around balls made from plastic bags and string, and adults arriving from the fields, chat idly. Take a seat on one of the brightly colored plastic chairs and enjoy whatever happens to be available. The likely fare? Ugali with greens and boiled plantains, or if you’re lucky, beans too. Eating and chatting with locals is a far more rewarding use of an evening than the typical guest house restaurant fare.