Another Farewell: Cuzco
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This is a year of temporary homes for me. Traveling the Andes, bouncing between volunteer placements and Spanish courses, I seem to be staying in cities just long enough to love them before tearing myself away. In late April, I ended three months in Cochabamba, Bolivia, and wrote in my personal travel blog about aspects of the city I'll miss. Next, it was on to Cuzco, Peru, where I spent a month. Yesterday I bid farewell to that home as well. A month may not sound like a long time, but it was long enough that when I was visiting my favorite coffeeshops, restaurants, and bars for the final time, when the early morning bus pulled away from the station and the city slowly turned to Altiplano countryside, I felt the same bittersweetness that chokes me up whenever I have to leave a place I've come to think of as home. I know the feeling won't last (in fact, I think it's already gone), so I'd better take the time now to document what it is about Cuzco that made it special to me: 1. Norton's With the best free wi-fi in the city and a chill daytime atmosphere, Norton's Pub was my office most afternoons. I'd saunter in after my morning Spanish class, greet the team of waiters who were always happy to see me, order a coffee and an avocado and cheese sandwich, and get a productive 4–6 hours of work in. Right on the corner of the Plaza de Armas, the views weren't bad either. 2. Cuesta San Blas For most of the month, I stayed at a hostel in San Blas, up a steep hill from the plaza. I always enjoyed huffing it up the narrow, cobblestoned street as quickly as I could—partly for the exercise, partly to show up the panting tourists fresh off the boat. Not the most organized or polished Spanish school I've attended, but the teachers were all down-to-earth and a lot of fun. It helped that they were around my age, too. Having constant contact with local Cuzqueños made the city seem more like home. 4. Yoga class Attending a regular yoga class had the same effect, adding to my local routine. 5. Colonial grandeur From the church-heavy main plaza to the narrow streets and courtyard houses that radiate out from it, central Cuzco is a beautiful place. Yes, it's full of tourists and people constantly in your face trying get a piece of the tourists, but if you can get beyond that and simply take in your surroundings, there are few cities I've seen that can compete with Cuzco's elegance. |

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Hey, thanks for reading my post, it's much appreciated. I loved this post by you, i'd love to visit Cuzco.
i'm often surprised by how attached i seem to get to a place when there for only a brief period of time. and after every departure i think, i will be back here again...but we can't go back everywhere, can we?
i love cuzco - i was there march 2009!
Nice, guess I just missed you. :)
Bittersweet is an apt word for leaving 'home'.
It's funny how these temporary homes can become so part of our lives. Sounded like you build up quite a routine there, it reminded of my time studying Spanish in Xela, Guatemala. Another thing about these temporary homes, is that live seems so vivid, even the routine is enjoyable, I guess that's because it's temporary and its something you want to do.
Thanks for the tip - I'll definitely look into it.
Hal- Love how you describe the way in which a place becomes familiar, becomes home, so quickly.
Great post. I haven't been able to spend a month in any one locale lately (besides home) but even when I spend a week somewhere I develop an attachment to it and wish I didn't have to leave.
Wonderful. It sounds like you got a pretty good feel of Cuzco. I haven't had a lot of time to catch up on all the rest of your recent South American travels (so, sorry for my ignorance), but why are you so on the move if you were feeling so comfortable in one place??
And thanks for all your supporting comments during my PC preparations. I think you mentioned that Mongolia was one of your favorite destinations?? Think you could tell me why?
Good luck with your journeys!
Thanks for the comments, all.
The idea for this whole trip was that my wife and I wanted to do some volunteering, but we didn't want to spend a year in the same place/assignment. We started out in Bolivia, but as Americans we were only allowed to spend 3 months there. Cuzco was a little month-long break to brush up on our Spanish (yet again), and now we're headed down to Argentinean Patagonia for our next assignment.
I consider Mongolia my favorite country simply because it's so different, so foreign to me, and it manages to keep its sense of mystery. I mean, half the population lives a nomadic lifestyle! It's crazy. The landscape is amazing, and the unique ways in which the people interact with it really made an impression on me. I can't think of how to explain it--it affected me very deeply and emotionally, and I'm still not exactly sure why.
Can't wait to read your reports!