Sunday, May 4, 2008

It started as a perfect day, with more sun than shade and a light breeze ruffling the water.

It was the day of the Festa della Sensa, when the Doge of the Republic of Venice used to sail out in his Bucintoro and cast a ring into the sea. The Bucintoro, the magnificent two deck boat with 48 windows and seating for 90 people, was used only by the highest Venetian authorities on state occasions, and especially on Ascension Day. The Doge sat on a throne on the stern, and when the boat would reach the outermost point of Venice, the Patriarch would row over to the Bucintoro in his own boat and join the Doge. Then he would bless the sea and the Doge would throw the ring, thus symbolizing Venice's connection to the Adriatic and dominion over her.

Now there's no Doge, but the ceremony is recreated every year with the Mayor and other city officials. The relationship of Venice with the sea continues to be of the utmost importance, and Venetians are proud of their traditions. This particular festival is intimately related to the history of Venice, and I wanted to see as much of it as possible. The procession was supposed to leave from the Piazza San Marco, and end at the Church of San Nicolo' on the Lido. I decided to skip San Marco and take the free boat offered at 9:30 to go to the Lido, leaving, I thought from another part of the city.

But when I went to the place where I thought the boat was, the Alilaguna stop (the boat that goes to the airport) on the Fondamenta Nuova, it was nowhere to be seen. So I ran over to Piazza San Marco. Perhaps I could at least see the Regatta that was also leaving from there and catch a regular vaporetto, water bus, to the Lido.

At Piazza San Marco, I saw that the regatta had already taken off, and that there wouldn't be any more vaporetti for an hour, so as to avoid getting in the way of the regatta. I was disappointed, because I really wanted to experience the ceremony, but it was too beautiful a day to be upset and after all, the sea was sparkling, filled with strong young men in colorful costumes rowing their hearts out.

I walked on to the Giardini, the park area of Venice, and enjoyed the greenery. Then I realized that there's another Alilaguna stop there. It must have been from here that  the free boat left.  Oh well, maybe next year.

Finally I caught a crowded vaporetto to the Lido, full of celebrants and other tourists eager to see some authentic festival, and hopped onto a bus to San Nicolo'.

A special mass was in progress, but the church was so crowded I couldn't get in the door, though I did catch a glimpse of the priest's gold hat. Instead I browsed the mercantino, flea market, and decided to finally buy a green bottle. I'd wanted one at the last flea market I'd been to. But since I'd divested myself of my possessions when I left NY, it hadn't seemed right to start collecting things again. Finally though, I couldn't resist the price of 2 euro for Venetian glass. Incense wafted through the air. A burner had been left outside one of the doors to the church. Some women were selling home baked goods and I treated myself to a fat piece of ricotta cheesecake before returning to Venice.

I hadn't had an 'historic experience,' but a lovely day after all.