June 29, 2009 

The past few days have been sort of jam-packed with adventure in the way that one hopes time in Rome will be. Monday morning I got on the Metropolitana towards the Colosseum and spent an hour reading about its building on top of the site of Nero’s personal, artificial like when the Emperor Vespasian won the civil war after his death. I got quite a kick out of the explanation about the ancient graffiti still found on some of the stones: they can’t date it because of its “spontaneous nature.” Bahaha. Rome is covered in graffiti and at first one might be inclined to chalk this up as a negative – however, when you consider that the only reason we know how ancient Latin was spoken at all is from the graffiti in Pompeii – it’s hard to condemn. I encountered more graffiti today in the Catacombs of San Callisto where the monk described the etches as “a spiritual guestbook,” but that’s getting ahead of myself.

After the Colosseum I wandered the Forum and Palatine Hill enjoying the view of Rome and the strong sun. At noon about a dozen different churches started sounding their bells – the cacophony from atop the hill was glorious – if only the other tourists would shut up long enough to notice! Ah well.

Back on the Metropolitana I hopped to the Vatican. On a whim, I decided to stand in line for St. Peter’s as it was only 1pm and my guidebooks both recommended waiting until 2:30pm to head to the Vatican Museums when the lines are considerably shorter (they were right). I entered the square and, frankly, this year has been one of consistently challenging my atheism. First Jerusalem and now Rome… I was overwhelmed. I was a believer… for ten whole seconds – until I noticed the huge OBELISK in the middle of the square. Nothing to undermine a religion founded on chastity by having a giant phallus in front of its center.

I was genuinely astounded at the number of idiots who didn’t seem to understand the signs that you CANNOT enter the Church with bare knees or bare shoulders. After waiting in line for an hour (which was enjoyable as I like to people-watch), I would be pretty upset to be turned away. However, I had a shawl and was pulled towards Michelangelo’s Pieta with which I have a new-found love affair. It’s a beautiful church – the Pieta is awe-inspiring.

I walked part way to the Vatican Museums until I realized that the reason there was not a crowd heading their with me was because it was a bank holiday. This also means the post office was closed (if you’re wondering why your postcards are taking so long – I have only been able to post them today). Finally getting into my solo-traveller groove, I pulled out my trusty Fodor’s and came up with an alternative plan – one the bank holiday one continuously spoil, but still good fun.

I went to the Piazza del Popolo to enjoy the book-ended Baroque Churches. On the off-chance that another church on the square might reopen at 4pm as per its hours, I spent 45 minutes lounging gloriously in the Villa Borghese. Returned to the square, but no luck. By this time, I was starving. Using Fodor’s I tried to find Gina’s, but no luck. I DID however stumble upon a grocery store where I bought myself a peach, some fresh bread and prosciutto with the promise of getting gelato later.

I ate next to the Spanish steps until it started to rain. I returned to my hostel for much-needed shower – did I mention it’s hot in Rome – and hopefully to wait out the rain. At 7pm, I put my shoes back on and walked over to Trevi Fountain to throw in a coin and make a wish – thus ensuring my subsequent return to Rome which was sort of guaranteed anyways as I have to come back to fly out – but there is no sense in taking chances. At Trevi Fountain I struck up a conversation with Niccolo, a police officer (yes, I saw his badge) who took me for gelato (new flavour! Blackberry! Awesome!) and then to hang out with two Russian friends of his – Anna and Daria on Vian Nazionale. After about an hour of chatting about the personality traits of different nationalities, Niccolo’s friend Lucca, who plays piano at one of the five-star hotels here, showed up and whisked us off in his car to the Zodiac Club at the Belvedere. It’s called the Belvedere for a reason – the most stunning view of Rome at night ever – made only better by our serendipitously being offered the use of the Zodiac’s piano which Lucca used to wow the socks of their musicians. He made fast friends and I wished I knew more Italian songs. They are so pretty.

Speaking of songs – Celine Dion was playing in the Ottaviano metro station that afternoon. It was a bit surreal.

I write this from my hostel room where I am again hoping to wait out the rain before meeting Niccolo for pizza on this, my last evening in Rome. Today has been another adventure – about which I will write when it is complete.