An American in Iran
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It's getting late in Shiraz, Iran, and I am afraid if I tell the
taxi driver I am American, I may not make it home. If I have learned
anything over the last 4 days, it is that there is a good chance I will
be taken to his home, introduced to his entire family, and fed dinner.
And I am NOT exaggerating.
In fact, I am leaving the home of Leila, a cute Iranian girl I had asked to tea. She, in turn, suggested instead that we "just" go to her home and meet her family. I, of course, accepted. I met her mother and father. Her brother, sister-in-law, and nephew had also come to the house to meet me. While dinner cooked, they sat me down in front of a computer and showed me videos of their last holiday celebration and of a dolphin show. They then presented to me more plates of food than I could have possibly eaten. They were curious about America, overly polite, and I thought that if I complemented their TV, they would have gift wrapped it for me, and thrown a kebab on top for good measure. ("You have a beautiful....daughter?") Of the 25+ countries I have been to, Iran is easily the safest and friendliest country I have been to. I can walk down any street and feel safe (walking across the street, or "Death Frogger", is completely another matter). Wandering around, I attract only a little attention. However, if I stop to buy something or sit down, within a minute or two someone will approach me and try their English on me. To wit: I was in the airport waiting for an internal flight across Iran. My arms and legs are crossed, my eyes are half closed and my headphones are on. Not very open. I feel a tap on my shoulder. "Hello. My name is Hadi. I am 24 years. I am a teacher." I smile. The Five Questions will come, inquiring about: 1. My name. 2. Profession 3. Where I am from 4. My age, or How I like Iran 5 Am I married. And of course, his response to #3 is exactly like everyone elses: "Los Angeles? America?! Persians love Americans! Iranian government no. But all Persians love Americans!" He gives me his number and tells me to call him when I am in Tehran. Even though I have 4 free days in Tehran, I tell him I wont be able to. Do you know why? Because I already have a pocket full of numbers of people I must meet in Tehran from this happening!! This place is like 1950s America, but less reserved. - Policemen washing their police cars stop what they are doing when I walk by, wave to me and shout, in English, "Hello!" "Salam" I say, and I smile. - The salesmen and taxi drivers are not aggressive, and in their spiel they will apologize for, and make jokes about, being pushy salesmen. - A group of tough-looking young men are blocking our path as we walk through a park. When they hear our voices, without hesitation they clear a path. - I can go up to anyone on the street and ask to take their picture. They will say yes and pose without asking why. This may get the police called on you in the U.S. I did this multiple times today just to see how far I could take it. Families with small children, thugs, young girls walking alone: every single one approved. It is surreal. Their standard of living is much better than I expected, maybe a couple steps below ours, and they dress a lot better. Their level of hospitality, however, makes us look like jerks. Knowing what the average American thinks of Iranians, we look like Great Ignorant American Jerks. It disgusts me that Americans think that anyone here could be hostile, when the reality is the exact opposite. It's like saying everyone in the U.S. is part of the KKK. You are a victim of propoganda. At the very least, of great ignorance. Please pass this on. I shutter to think that "attack" or "bomb" could be used in the same sentence as "Iran".
-Rob |
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Wonderfully written and beautiful photos!
This is great. I will admit I am quite ignorant about Iran but this post is eye-opening. I will be making sure I pass this along. This is EXACTLY what traveling is about.
Cheers,
Carlo
Love this blog and am passing it on - please, please - keep it up.
Raggs, thanks for posting. Came across it while researching my upcoming 2-3 week Iran trip in May/June. Given it'll be my 1st time there, I was thinking Tehran, Esfahan, Shiraz + 1 or 2 other places. Am a pretty hardy traveler whose main goals are soaking in culture, people & landscape. Any recommendations?
I'm Iranian-American and having been to Iran several times, outside of Tehran, Isfahan and Shiraz, I highly recommend going up to the Caspian Sea. Ramsar and Babolsar are my favorite towns by the coast. The people there are so friendly, the landscape is lush, green and though it rains all the time, it stays pretty warm in the summer. Make sure to try the smoked white fish with rice and roasted garlic around there - it's a northern specialty.
www.yogurtsoda.com
This is a really dangerous article. Of course the majority of Iranians have no hostility to Americans. But it's remarkably naive to tell people that there is no danger to Americans traveling there based on your experiences alone. There are plenty of crazed fundamentalists in Iran, even if they are a minority. And plenty of people extremely angry at the US who might just welcome an opportunity to take it out on one of their citizens. This doesn't mean you shouldn't go. Just be careful and do your research.
Well Rick Steves came to the same conclusion
check out Rick Steves' Iran Documentary
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2884232348733568709&hl=en
Rob,
first up, welcome to matador man, and thanks so much for sharing this. also congrats--we've chosen this as the first piece selected for a new series we're running on the network called 'lines of the week'. check it here: http://thetravelersnotebook.com/lines-of-the-week/think-you-know-what-its-like-to-travel-in-iran/
let me know if you'd like us to put your real name rather than screenanme for this piece. feel free to email me: david[at]matadornetwork[dot]com
thanks again, and congrats. we look forward to more.
david
Wow, thanks everyone. Iran, like much of the world, gets their impressions of us through satellite TV and movies, which disturbs me a little. Everyone sees the fantasy version and many people abroad have told me that their dream is to see America.
Politically, they are smarter than most Americans in that they know there's a difference between the citizens and politicians in a country. Can we stop judging a culture by its government, too?
Great photos, and well said.
These photos are stunning.
Great post, and amazing photos! I will indeed be passing this on.
Man, this is great. I just blogged about this recently, based on people I've talked to and readings. How easily did you get your visa? I'm interested in visiting Iran. I was traveling in Western China last year and met several people who had been to Iran and told me the same as you posted here.
We gotta get the word out. These people are NOT our enemies.
This is great! I'd heard that the Iranians are a friendly people, but this is such a colorful firsthand account! A question - why are they so crazy about Americans?
I have not traveled to Iran, but I suspect there are a few factors in many of the locals enthusiasm for Americans.
The first is that we're forbidden fruit: we've been so reviled by the now older generation in Iran that it's made the young quite curious about us. I remember friends who had traveled to Russia in the late 80's who were met with a similiar reaction. Also is the fact that the youth of Iran (who are many and mighty) are well hooked into the internet and global pop culture. Of course American movies, fashion, and music figure highly into this. Iran, for all its restrictions, is no Saudi Arabia. Most importantly may be the role of traditional Persian hospitality, which is famously kind and generous.
Again, these are my impressions from afar. I'm sure the poster can better answer the question, but I'm a little drunk, so what the hell?
Okay, here's a theory. Perhaps a lack of American visitors to Iran has, so far, kept Iranians from looking at us in the same unfavorable light in which so many other people in other countries have learned to view us. Perhaps we are such a scarce presence for them that they have not yet become turned off by our ways as, sadly, many (most?) people in so many other countries seem to be.
And I think the forbidden fruit theory is a great one.