India. Incredible India! Or so the advertisement campain says. Here in Mumbai the incredible is the noise and dirt, grand buildings and high class bars. The contrast is incredible.

Near to our hotel there is a road, what used to be a road in fact. It looks like someone has driven a jaded steam roller down it a few times. It smells like 100 year old public toilets. The air is rancid and I found myself breathing as little as possible. Lining the street are bedragled stalls with a pitance of stock and beds or shacks where most people live. The crowded road is filled with cows and hand pulled carts in addition to the conventional taxis and bikes and buses. Prostitutes stand in front of curtain veiled buildings and a woman gives tattoos on the side of the road using a needle powered by a sewing maching. And no, the needle is not disposable.

In the South of the city, only the side streets are used as public W.C's. The huge stone university and government buildings still stand proudly as the British built them. Antique shops and cafes surround the fine hotels in streets kept free of rotting remains. Modern bars found among tourist market stalls calm and contain the visiting crowd, diminishing the need to explore futher afield.

I came here to listen to some quality Indian music - as well as see the sights. We had some luck in Cochin as a fine restaurant called The Boatyard. Three musicians entertained as we ate some of the best food available. The Kathakali show in the same place was also an interesting event and one not to be missed. Last night we saw Roger Waters of Pink Floyd which was an unexpected part of our trip. It took two hours to find the place and there was no beer to be found, but who needs it with a concert like that. The sound and the visuals were outstanding. A great atmosphere, fantasic music and a valentines to remember.