Every February, hundreds of thousands flock to Brazil for the largest Carnival celebration in the world. In September, hundreds of thousands more head to Germany for the largest Oktoberfest celebration in the world. But what if, due to unforeseen circumstances, you find yourself in Germany during Carnival season?

Countries all over the world celebrate Carnival, even frozen Germany. Much like in South America, the German celebration lasts over a week. In fact, the Carnival season officially starts at 11:11p.m. on November 11^th but the actual festivities don’t reach full swing until the Thursday before Ash Wednesday.  Different parts of Germany have different names for the festival, from Fasching in Munich to Karneval in Cologne, and each name brings different connotations to the nature of the celebration.

The weekend before Ash Wednesday in 2005 I drive up to Bonn, where a few of my German friends live. Bonn, originally a Roman settlement, was the capitol of West Germany during the Cold War. Today it remains a political and corporate hub, housing one of the largest universities in Germany and sixteen United Nations institutions. Each quarter within each of the four districts of Bonn has its own Carnival parade and in one day we manage to attend three of them within the Bonn district. All are similar in their exuberance and general themes, with slight variations in presentation.

The parades are part Rose Bowl, part Shriner’s Circus, part Macy’s Parade. The major floats, from pirate ships to tractors, are made from multi-colored flowers, while the marching bands are all dressed as clowns. From each float the men and women dressed in antiquated military costumes throw candy and plastic toys into the crowds. The onlookers for their part, despite being bundled in ski parkas and scarves, could just as easily be trick-or-treating in their clown paint, fluorescent green and purple wigs, and bunny ears.

In each quarter there is at least one float that reminds me we’re in Germany. Towing a keg on a wagon draped with the German flag, college students in Ippendorf pass out shots to anyone who wants to scare away the cold. In Bonn-Zentrum, another float is a rolling kitchen as cooks fry up potato pancakes and pastries while they walk. Attila and his band of Huns march to the beat of a drum while offering shots of Gluehwein (a sweet wine served heated).

On Monday we drive twenty kilometers (about ten miles) north to Cologne for the Rosenmontag (Rose Monday) celebration, the climax of the Karneval celebration. Over one million people line the streets as the parade winds through the city. The floats remind me of the ones in Bonn, only three times larger. When someone behind us yells, “Struessjer!” one of the costumed men on the float fires a cannon and a bouquet of flowers streaks into the crowd. A few minutes later, someone else yells, “Kamelle!” In response, candy bars stream from the float, prompting everyone us to scramble over each other trying to catch it. A little boy in front of us grabs at a candy bar, but an old man shoves him out of the way and wrenches it from his grasp. As a float rolls by bearing a replica of the Dom with outstretched hands, one of my friends unwraps a chocolate bar. He takes a bite and then spits it out. “Dry,” he says.

After a troupe of dancers, a group dressed as windmills, and a first grade marching band, the honor float passes by. On the very top, we can see Seal, the R&B singer, dressed in Victorian style garb and tossing candy bars. Next to him is Heidi Klum, wearing a white wig and waving. Amidst cheers of “Kamelle!” and “Struessjer!” one college student shouts “Heidi!” The crowd laughs and then breaks into the song, “Viva Colonia.” A few more floats and bands and we’ve had enough, even though the parade will continue for another hour. We cross the street and then move behind the ropes to work our way out of the city. We pause for just a moment to see the giant mole float approaching and suddenly an old woman begins shoving me and shouting at me for blocking her view.

If you happen to be in Europe during Carnival season, Germany is a great place to celebrate. The gluehwein will warm your body and the costumes and festivities will warm your heart. Just keep in mind that the Germans take their parties very seriously.  Bring your purple wig, learn the words to at least one drinking song, and if you see candy flying your way, make sure no one else wants it before you grab at it.