The Quiet of the Dordogne
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I have just returned from a place that is now one of my favorites in France. Many have heard of the Dordogne and recognize the towns of Les Ezies, Sarlat and Le Bugue - although worth every lovely thing written about that part of the region - I am talking about a quieter pocket to the North. My base was a lovely and quaint cottage outside of the little village of St. Privat des Pres. Zoe and Darren Sewell and their family were my hosts for my week long stay for work and research. I could not have asked for a more lovely spot. The thing about this area is that it is really, genuinly, the best part of the pastoral side of France. The land of Foie Gras, truffles and one of the cradles of civilization, the Perigord or Aquitane as it has also been refered to is the real deal. I arrived at my lovely cottage having driven the 7 hour drive from Chamonix directly through the center of the country. If you enjoy driving in Europe this is a nice quiet stretch via Clermond Fernand. I explored the general area, got my internal compass sorted out and located the weekly market spots which are generally the way I like to start my day in France. A lovely pain au chocolat and a coffee at the best looking cafe in town or one recommended by a local followed by a stroll through the market. It is really the best way to see the rhythm of a region and introduce you to the local produce. Talking to the stall vendors in as much French as you can as they are in the region everyday for a different market and can tell you which ones are worth a visit. Ones I loved were Riberac and Brantome - both on Friday mornings. Other hightlights include:
I'll be back soon with some other reviews of my travel in Provence, Paris, Chamonix and Burgundy. A+, Maija As always, I love comments! |
