He turned 400 this year, and he's looking better than ever. Quebec City is celebrating four centuries of culture with year-round festivities. The clifftop citadel that intimidated invading armies now conquers with a smile, a flourish of a plumed hat and a glass of kir.  The city is dressed in its best.  New murals cover some crumbling walls and pillars; an elaborate new fountain dances in front of the Parliament buildings, and costumed guides help draw you into the past.  Visit between July 3 and 4 if you can. That's when the party culminates in a concert featuring legendary French Canadian performers, including Ginette Reno, as well as some of the newer rising stars.  Another major concert, featuring Celine Dion, will be held in August. Check http://monquebec2008.sympatico.msn.ca/MonQuebec2008/?lang=en-ca for a calendar of events.