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We all know what Canadians are good at. Hockey. Skiing. Saying 'eh?' at the end their sentences. When
you think of good wine though, your mind likely does not jump directly
to British Columbia. Italy, Spain, Chile? California, Australia,
Argentina? Not too long ago I too would have grouped Canada into the
fine wine producing nations such as Antarctica and Ireland. No longer,
my friends.
But what would travel be without growth? Without
crossing cultural boundaries and breaking down those hard stone
barriers in our minds and hearts? You can learn lessons from a book or
website, a friend or television screen, but the lessons of true value
are the ones we learn ourselves. And so, in a mission of self
improvement, a triumphant quest for knowledge, I traveled to the
distinguished vineyards of the Okanagan. We left late afternoon
on Friday with a 5 hour drive ahead of us, just two hungry people and
foul mouthed dog. Vancouver is superb at many things, but easing
traffic is not one of them. Local rumors attribute this to
environmentally friendly city planners who want more people to live in
the city than to commute. There are bike lanes and pedestrian
controlled lights. An efficient bus and subway system, and easily
walkable streets. But attempting to get out of the city on any of its
major routes has been a nightmare. Eventually we broke free of the
bumpers in front and behind of us and were zooming through the
blackness the likes of which I've only seen in New Zealand, listening
to NPR Food Podcasts and singing whatever songs came clumsily through
the intermittent radio. We arrived at our hotel in Kewlona late and not
long after were sound asleep, anxious to get an early start on the next
day's wineventures. After a tasty breakfast burrito at the
charmingly named “Greatful Fed” restaurant, we were on our way to our
first vineyard, Quail's Gate. Being a wine tasting novice, I was
pleasantly surprised to realize that yes, they just give you wine. For
free. And if you want to try a bit more it is a mere dollar!The wine
was tasty, though the tasting room and gift shop were crowded and
noisy. I felt slightly uneasy at first gulp, not sure of tasting
etiquette or required interaction with the wine pourer. But I relaxed
soon enough, and found it an interesting challenge to try to actually
taste those notes of nutmeg and hints of pomegranate. Next in
line was Mission Hill Vineyards. A beautiful, hill top estate, complete
with church, green patio pavilion, lush amphitheater and slightly
snobbish air. The view of Lake Okanagan was spectacular though, and the
wine better than the one before. We both adored the 2005 Shiraz, but
had a hard time enjoying the smoky tobacco notes of the bolder Syrah.
(Do I sound like a connoisseur, yet? Not to worry, there are more.) Onward
we drove to the Naramata Bench Vineyards in Penticton. The vineyards
here were much more our pace. They were small, family owned and not
over crowded. There was one to two pourers in each place, all with an
intense knowledge and pride in their offerings. We visited Stonehill
Estates which had an excellent port, Mistral Estates, whose Chardonnay
I really enjoyed (I am not a Chardonnay drinker,) and Spiller Estates,
which not only had tasty fruit wines, but also an ice cream stand too
cute to pass up. As we gathered our bearings, ate our ice cream
and played with the local dog we were able to really look around us and
take in the absolutely incredible scenery. Though the skies had been
threatening all day, they had yet to unleash even a sprinkle. The
clouds were dark and dramatic allowing sun rays to filter through in
reluctant and fierce golden slivers. The vineyards shook in the wind
and shone in the sun and the grapes jingled as gems. What a beautiful
place, this wine land!
After
our break we drove farther up the hill to Laughing Stock Vineyard where
a former stock market couple sold it all to live their dream of owning
a vineyard. We sampled some of the best wines of the day where all
proceeds from the two dollar tasting went to charity. (Is this tax
deductible?) We attended one final vineyard, which was a
highlight of the day, at the colorful, fun and beautiful Elephant
Valley Vineyards. This, like Spiller Estates was a fruit winery, and
the one which sold me on the idea of fruit wine. Not being into sweet
wines myself, I was quite pleased to taste the tangy pear and slightly
bitter- sour apricot wines. But without a doubt, their cherry port was
too good to pass up. We bought a bottle and some chocolate to have for
our dessert.
All
in all, it was an exquisite day; my first wine tasting experience, my
first trip to the spectacular innards of British Columbia, my first
appreciation for the wines of Canada. And when Bryan asked if I wanted to go to one more vineyard at the end of the day, I muttered, “No, I think I am kind of wine-d out.” It was indeed, a day of firsts.
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