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Buenos Aires is known as the city that never sleeps, so when I arrived I was not expecting to be disappointed by the nightlife. But before you start booing and hissing, this was short lived. With a list of recomendations from every porteño I met, I made may way through the labyrinthine night scene of Buenos Aires in search of that illusive scene that fits you like a glove, and around every corner I came closer to what I was looking for. Here is what I have found so far…
Museum This cavernous, old converted Museum houses one of San Telmo’s few clubs. But unless you’re looking for a night of easy action and dismal house music avoid it. Perhaps a tell-tall sign was the over-eager bouncer parading pretty girls to the front of the queue, but nothing will prepare you for the meat market inside. In a testosterone fuelled frenzy girls are grabbed and fondled so much a pinch on the bum seems polite. One man even tried to press his face into my butt. I only lasted 20 minutes before making a hasty retreat. San Telmo, Perú 535, www.museumclub.com.ar
Bar Carnal After discovering this fantastic nightspot in Palermo, it has become a regular haunt. An ideal place to start the evenings’ proceedings, and even end them if you’re after an early night. Carnal, which attracts a trendy but friendly crowd, only stays open until 4am, a time when the night is only just warming up for most porteños. Enjoy a cocktail from the well-stocked bar on the intimate roof terrace, a place to be seen in Palermo. Palermo, Niceto Vega 5511, www.carnalbar.com.ar
Niceto Club Right opposite Carnal this was an obvious stop off, especially as it features on many Top Clubs in BA lists. It may tout itself as delivering underground music in a industrial venue, but in reality it plays monotonous out-dated house music in a bland and smokey space. On most nights they have live bands, but nothing ground breaking is happening here. Palermo, Niceto Vega 5510, www.nicetoclub.com
Miloca It took me a few weeks to adjust but once I was living, breathing, and sleeping in BA time, this place was a godsend. In Buenos Aires you don’t start drinking until at least midnight, and you don’t hit a club until at least 2am, so nights often don’t end until your siesta the next day. On my way home one evening at 5am, my taxi-driver mocked me for being a lightweight. Bar Miloca is an all-night bar, where you can watch the sun rise from a grungy little roof-top terrace lining your stomach with a plate of fries after a long-night drinking, or for the more debauched, see the sunshine in with another stiff one. Palermo, Niceto Vega 5189, www.miloca.com.ar
Guapachoza Bar Set up in a old colonial home, Guapachoza still manages to be laidback and a bit grungy, like you’re actually at a house party. But this is somewhere you can find innovative live music acts. Most of the action happens outside, where people drink the reasonably priced drinks and eat fresh stone-baked pizza. But tucked away in an inside room is a cosy little stage, with the audience crammed in on tables, on the floor or pressed against the wall. Monday’s a regular band called Violent Tango play the newstrain of Buenos Aires fusion tango music, and on Thursdays La Bombachita gives you foot-stomping live percussion. Congresso, Jean Jaures 715
Club Atlético Fernández Fierro This tangueria loca is the product of a newly infused generation of young musicians taking tango music a whopping great leap further into something spectacular. A 12-man orchestra of young musicians, many with dreadlocks and sun glasses, crash out music that has taken tango through rock and jazz and out somewhere completely new. Retaining the improvisational nature of tango, the show includes a ringmaster who wields props like an umbrella or cat while singing, in a performance that harks back to surrealist avant garde. Flashing lights and the converted warehouse setting, make this a dramatic and not-to-be-missed experience. Capital Federal, C.A.F.F. Sánchez de Bustamante 764, www.fernandezfierro.com
Million Go here for the building if nothing else. This converted old mansion retains some many of its original features including epic high ceilings, a quaint garden, and romantic balconies. Drinks are pricey, and the tapas isn’t worth a try, but for a taste of the high life in one of BA’s richest barrios it’s worth a look-in. Recoleta, Parana 1048, www.milion.com.ar
Sonoman In a city where electronica keeps the wheels of the night-scene turning it is difficult to find a thriving rock scene for an outside. But this bar, which has more of a friendly pub feel to it than most Palermo places, has a solid music policy where quality comes before anything else. They play a range of music from British indie, late 80s rock, to 70s guitar classics, and have very friendly bar staff who tolerate all sorts of wildness from their patrons. There is a pretty outside garden too. Palermo, Gorriti
Caix Even if house music doesn’t get you going, Caix is good enough to make you grab a glow-stick and get involved. It’s all about their all-day Sunday parties. Wide-eyes night-owls emerge from all corners of the city and begin queuing at 8am waiting for the doors of this super-club to open. While indoors is a bit stuffy and intense, the outdoor terrace is inspired. As the sun grows stronger, dance your socks off while looking out over the Rio Del Plata. Sunglasses are a must.
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Although described for one bar, you've aptly captured the rock scene in BA: 70s, 80s guitar rawk! With a bit of 90s grunge as well to round it all out. I've been somewhat disappointed with the scene there, because one of the big things I miss from back home in PDX is good ol' quality rock and roll.
I think it may just go with the territory in BA, where electronic music keeps the crowd moving till dawn and rock's sort of fallen by the wayside. And as you mention there is some solid nuevo-tango-jazz stuff going on, which I have enjoyed, but really in a city this big you'd expect less pedestrian rock and maybe a little more blowing of the mind...
...or maybe thats just me (and I have only been to 3 rock shows, but people talk about this problem too).
Anyway good post, I'll have to check out el CAFF.
Oh and to reply to agora1031, Club Niceto on Thursdays hosts ZIZEK now which is pretty freakin fun if you like electronica with some latin-cumbia flavor, it's good stuff!
The lateness of BA reminds me a lot of Barcelona. People ate dinner around midnight and went drinking at 2am!
BA sounds like a wonderful place!
nice to read about BA but i must make one suggestion... during my time in buenos i learned that niceto turns into a hip hop club (called lost) on thursday nights (if i remember correctly or if it's changed since then, future apologies). it was a good place to go if you were seeking a little refuge from the standard discotech. suerte en tus cosas y divertidate!!!
Terrific list, Tyler! Glad to hear you're having a blast in BA.
You should absolutely write for the satellite blogs in the Matador network, where the editorial team can throw you enough cash for a pretty solid night on the town in BA - check out the Bounty Board under the travel writing tab for open assignments, or just check out http://matadortrips.com, http://matadornights.com, etc. to get a sense of the style - although you're nailing it already - and shoot us an e-mail.
Best,
Tim
http://matadornights.com/club-atletico-fernandez-fierro/
My vote goes to Milion! Sexiest bar (and bartenders!) in the city..
South America is on my list, Argentina especially, I'll have to look these places up when I make it down there.